GSA Shaft replacement...??

bikerider007

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Thetford,Norfolk
the last owner of my bike(i must have jet washed it or some thing puntured the front seal between gearbox and swing arm and let in loads of water that has sat there for ages and now is very rusty and corroded. i do have a pic of this will post it when i get home.any how the dealer gave me two options 1.just spend £180 to get seal replaced and shaft cleaned up as best without removing it as the water only sat at the bottom end :(
2. spend £500 pounds and replace (shaft £300) and seal
3. My Idea i get used shaft from Motorworks £145 and seal£10 and i do the work:augie
now how hard is it to do i.e special tools? other seal/s?
what will i need guys ?i have only had the bike a week:blast
guess i should have gone to specsavers
the bike has had a full service today 10000mls)(last service 5000 miles, this is why i know this sad story though the dealer did say every else was good (yippe):(
thanks in advance for any help
 
have a go

buy a haynes manual and have a go yourself
take your time plenty oil grease and cups of tea

"Praise the lord and pass the Ammunition"
 
If you have a degree of mechanical knowledge, methodical in your approach it isn't that difficult a job....

If you don't it would be like asking me to carry out a frontal lobotomy in a lay-by with the std. BM toolkit.

Regards
 
Someone here, I think it was Steptoe, said that the shafts never fail.:nenau
If I were you, I'd just ignore it. My shaft was rusty after only a few miles and never offroad. I posted a pic here a long time ago. Just make sure that the joints and splines are well greased with Moly 90 and enjoy the ride. :D
 
Someone here, I think it was Steptoe, said that the shafts never fail.:nenau
If I were you, I'd just ignore it. My shaft was rusty after only a few miles and never offroad. I posted a pic here a long time ago. Just make sure that the joints and splines are well greased with Moly 90 and enjoy the ride. :D

indeed.

i'd take it out and check the joints/splines/etc. before committing to buy a new one.
 
Someone here, I think it was Steptoe, said that the shafts never fail.:nenau
If I were you, I'd just ignore it. My shaft was rusty after only a few miles and never offroad. I posted a pic here a long time ago. Just make sure that the joints and splines are well greased with Moly 90 and enjoy the ride. :D

Yeah just saw your photos urm mine's a little more rusty than that:augie
SCAN0001.JPG

:blast:mad::eek:
 
This was mine after only 3000 miles
300217828_pFsVc-L.jpg


The bottom joint is now well greased and very quickly turns a rusty brown, presumably with rust dust within the casing.

I have no idea what is at the top end !
 
Looking at the amount of ferrous oxide deposits on these cardon shafts and the statement that the grease turns brown, i see a potential wear issue..

The grease being applied to the splines and surroundings will over a period attract the rust, this will over time act like a subtle grinding medium..

If possible i would certainly remove as must of the rust as possible before treating the surface with a rust inhibitor.

Regards
 
thanks guys, i will get my wire brush out scrub the cr*p out of it and soak it in some diesel. then grease it.when i get the guts to sort it. just ordered the haynes manual.
:silly question: now will i have to take the shaft out to change the front seal
 
I've had a broken 1200 shaft due to water ingress - Ingress, i like that word almost as much as flange.

Anyway to replace the shaft just drop down the final drive, remove shaft, re-insert new shaft.
To line up the front splines just pop back the front gaiter and use a lever to pop it onto the output shaft, then pop the gaiter back in place.
Replace rear gaiter ( if it's split) before swinging the final drive back up into place.

.
 
I've had a broken 1200 shaft due to water ingress - Ingress, i like that word almost as much as flange.

Anyway to replace the shaft just drop down the final drive, remove shaft, re-insert new shaft.
To line up the front splines just pop back the front gaiter and use a lever to pop it onto the output shaft, then pop the gaiter back in place.
Replace rear gaiter ( if it's split) before swinging the final drive back up into place.

.

hehehe you said flange:D:D:D
 
almost there :)

There was no play in the Ujoint at all thank god


bikerider007



Looking lots better, cheers steptoe


bikerider007



Ordered the front gaiter today so this doesnt happen again
 


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