Here we go again!

[yamonda1]

enjoying this

 

[MikeP]

Washing, scrubbing and polishing goes on:

More bits to add to the box of stuff that's done:

So I can make a start on some of the bits ready for painting:

First coat:

Having begun work this morning while it was still dark, I've just emerged for a coffee to discover that it's sunny, bright and dry outside. T'would have been a nice day to roll the K1 out for a ride.

 

[BBB61]

Mike,

I do have a heat shield for the K75, which is solid, and would probably need repainting.

 

[MikeP]

Mike,

I do have a heat shield for the K75, which is solid, and would probably need repainting.

Bob, drop me a line and tell me how much you want for it and we can sort out the money:

[email protected]

 

[Glyno]

enjoying this

And me

 

[slimpickings]

And me

Me

 

[topcat2006]

Me too.

Mike tanks for posting these and also the thread you did recently on spraying - I'm taking huge advantage of the ideas and methods in refurbish my Fazer.

I must remember to take some pictures of work of in progress and post them.

Tom

 

[MikeP]

I must remember to take some pictures of work of in progress and post them.

Tom

Do that Tom. I for one would love to see it.

Airhead owners eat your heat out:

Once the bits of the loom left in place are withdrawn through the tubes near the headstock, it takes about ten minutes to remove the frame on these old things. Five bolts and you're left with engine and transmission sat there for easy access:

Rather than disconnect the wires for the heated grips and faff about trying to feed them back down the handlebars, all I've done is pushed enough of the cable inside the bars to allow me to move the grips far enough towards the ends that will permit a clean-up and repaint.

It does make them look like some bastard RT & RS love child:

The front master cylinder piston seal seems to be okay, I'll remove the piston and check the bore in due course.

It's the relatively narrow bore of this system that limits the braking power, no amount of smart stainless braided hoses will change things apart from looking (and lasting) better.

The front callipers will need an overhaul. New pads are needed.

I considered new pin sets but as the complete sets use the same steel pins and springs, replacements would only go the same way in time. So I cleaned the originals:

As long as they have some grease to protect them, they'll do.

The top case adaptor plate foam has done the usual thing and crumbled to dust:

It was removed and I found some suitable replacement foam to cut to size and bond to the plate:

Some parts have the final coats of paint and can be bagged and stored:

Meanwhile other parts have the next coat:

The frame on this bike is going to take some sorting:

Looking at what is underneath, I think that this bike was stood for some time covered in mud before it was tarted-up by slapping some paint over the worst bits and then sold to the last owner.

It is mechanically very sound but it just goes to show what time can do as opposed to use. I wonder how it would have withstood the "storage" period had it been clean when it had been left standing for years?

 

[Deleted account 231002001]

Nice work, really interesting.

 

[Rob Farmer]

Nice work, really interesting.

+1

Good stuff Mike. I always enjoy your resto threads

 

[David Lee]

Thanks for doing this (again)

Always interesting

 

[Ogmios]

Foam bits;

Mike if you (or anyone else) needs foam - i get lots of it in various densities and some variety of colours in the job (computer deliveries).
Just ask.

So much great info on this thread!

 

[MikeP]

Foam bits;

Mike if you (or anyone else) needs foam - i get lots of it in various densities and some variety of colours in the job (computer deliveries).
Just ask.

Cheers Marc. I don't suppose you have any that's self-adhesive on one side? I love the 22 litre top-cases for these bikes, they're just the right size to leave on the bike to carry the odds and ends for a day out without being huge and unsightly. The quick release is nice but they can rattle about a bit. In the past I've used some 2 or 3 mm foam on the underside to solve the problem. Heaven knows where I got it from but I've none left.

Yesterday, I put an exploratory "wrench" onto the allen screws that hold the calliper halves together. As anticipated, they're solid (steel into aluminium and exposed to the road) so over-night I let some penetrating oil do its work.

Today, three came out with a swing on a long bar but one need the additional help from the hot air gun (I should have photographed the screws better, one of them is solid with oxidisation):

Before doing anything else I ran a tap down the threads to clean them:

My air-line made short work of popping the pistons out:

Then it was out with the piston seals before I set about cleaning everything. I was scrubbing for hours before I realised that someone had slapped paint over the old brake dust and crap.

There were two ridges of rust from the pad's backing plates that needed to be removed too:

The pistons, seals and dust covers are all in good condition under the brake dust so they've been thoroughly cleaned and bagged while I get on with the calliper halves.

The fork lowers finished:

 

[Ogmios]

Self adhesive backed foam;
sadly not, but
i could send you a little double sided tape?
Wait - it's not the crappy stuff - it's what's used to hold down carpet in aircraft.
a few mill thick and more like a strip of chewing gum!
How the hell i'll stop it sticking to itself in transit i dunno
i have a limited amount but if it's any use - you're welcome to try it anyhow.

p.s;
Mrs Og wants you over here!
Having seen your skills She has a few .... projects in mind!
(4 Bikes between us / only the Ratty K on the road )

 

[Bugbear]

Mike I bought some 3M adhesive-backed closed-cell foam tape last week from Lidls of all places. Cheap as well.

Worth a look.

 

[MikeP]

Mike I bought some 3M adhesive-backed closed-cell foam tape last week from Lidls of all places. Cheap as well.

Worth a look.

Thanks, I'll take a look.

 

[topcat2006]

Try some of this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Everbuild-Mammoth-Powerful-Double-Sided-Grip/dp/B001G9HVVK

As long as the surfaces are clean and grease free it won't come off.

I once used it to stick a small 12v fridge to the bulkhead in a van

 

[Bugbear]

A picture of what I bought - less than 5 euros

If you can't find it and need a small amount drop me a line with your address and length reqd. and I'll stick some in the post.

Gary.

 

[MikeP]

If you can't find it and need a small amount drop me a line with your address and length reqd. and I'll stick some in the post.

Gary.

Thanks Gary, it looks exactly what I want and I've just ordered a roll for less than a fiver.

 

[MikeP]

Been stripping more off for cleaning and sorting:

I've cleaned and transferred the various rubbers to the new stainless brake hose that will replace the one that sits under the fairing and was a potential MoT failure. Plus cleaned and treated the one that goes from the master cylinder to the metal brake pipe from the ABS modulator:

Some more scabby stuff needing work:

This bike is in a worse state than any I've attempted in the past year:

I do like a challenge. Plus I hope to prove that even the worst looking K-Series can be brought back to a decent condition.

Off with the offside footrest plate, the rear brake calliper and the rear ABS modulator:

The modulator is mounted on a frame that sits under the battery tray and a bobbin screwed into the top of the footrest plate:

Those who have tried to remove a seized one of these things from their GS bellypan will know what happens:

Bit of a bash with a hammer to 'shock' the thread free and then mole-grips soon has the base out (I had to do this to both sides):

I've already removed the ABS sensor bracket from the front calliper, this the one on the rear. Those screws are held by red Loctite so heat is needed to soften it:

The sensor and its cable plus the rear brake switch for cleaning:

and bagged once clean:

The rear brake ABS modulator cleaned and ready for reassembly:

The hose from the modulator to the rear calliper is another one that will be replaced with stainless braided.