K75S no drive?

[MikeP]

There is oil all around the bell housing, I guess it's the crank seal. I'll find out when I next get a chance to play-got some actual work to do now.

That could be down to over enthusiastic spline lube or the clutch carrier O-ring worn out.

The O-ring does become less elastic with age and it's job is to make the final seal between the clutch carrier and the output/balancer shaft.

Cheap enough to replace but a bit fiddly (the clutch cover screws, washers and the centre lock-nut and spacer are supposed to be replaced each time they're disturbed.

 

[Steptoe]

Please adopt smug mode!

You guys were right about the alternator drive rubbers,

Apart from my regular K series customers i also used to maintain a fleet of thirty K100/K75 bikes used by a courier company.
You can only imagine the mileages accumulated by all those bikes and what i learnt about the "K series" from working on them..

In the early nineties i did a K series buyers guide for one of the major bike magazines, might have been "Bike" magazine, i can't remember.

And, incidently, the K1100 alternator rubbers don't last as long as those on the K100.

And if you're replacing the alternator drive vane (engine side) also replace the seal that sits in the bell housing.

 

[Duc750]

It wasn't "Ride" by any chance ?

I found it the other day I think !

 

[Duc750]

You guys were right about the alternator drive rubbers, just starting to break up as you can see. Got the gearbox off with no problems, clutch is almost worn out. There is oil all around the bell housing, I guess it's the crank seal. I'll find out when I next get a chance to play-got some actual work to do now.

Mike is right its more often than not the O ring - I just did my main seal "because I was there"

 

[The Grey One]

Another question

Mike P's blue bike -see "here we go again" has plastic panels between the seat unit and the tank. Mine has none, are they missing or did some models/years not have them?

John

 

[skywalker]

Overhaul the clutch operating arm whilst yr that far down and fit a grease nipple to it. Flywheel nut is a once use item. Behind the flywheel us a top hat washer and oring - don't forget to change these as well. Clutch plate is a slightly modified R80 one.
When fitting the alternator put a bit of tyre soap on the cush drive rubbers to help installation. You'll see some small "witness" marks on the outside of the drive cup on the alternator . These align with the vanes of the drive dog off the engine. If you don't align them correctly you'll get the "Jimmy Savile" "Jingle Jangle" as the metal vanes touch each other "OOerr"

 

[The Grey One]

I got around to sorting out the frame. Thankfully only light surface corrosion-it actually looked worse in the photos. As this is not a complete rebuild I cleaned it all up, took off anything in the way, masked off the rest and sprayed the frame in situ. This is the result.

 

[The Grey One]

Despite what you lot might be getting, we have Spring, and so today the garage doors were opened for the first time since late October. The K75 was ridden out into the sunshine. First time it has moved under it's own power since last September when it stripped it's drive shaft splines.

The panels are only loosely fitted, indicators still on the shelf, but I rode it! Steering was a little heavy until I corrected the pressure-12.5 psi was a little low. It will go back together for the government tester to value it for the first registration tax (up to 16% of that value) Once Iv'e convinced them it's a worthless old crate I will take all the panels off and respray them.

 

[GADGET]

Whats wrong with yellow then john?

 

[The Grey One]

Whats wrong with yellow then john?

Well apart from it attracting kamikaze insects and incontinent birds not a lot. I didn't like the colour at first but it is growing on me so who knows. Some of the panels are a bit tatty so a respray is on the cards in any case.

John

 

[MikeP]

First full view we've had of the bike.

Some modifications are obvious:

Late model 3-Spoke alloy wheels, what appear to be floating front brake discs and 16-Valve model main-stand.

When it comes to the side panels missing, they turn up on ebay quite cheap or Motorworks sell them second-hand for about 40 quid.

 

[The Grey One]

First full view we've had of the bike.

Some modifications are obvious:

Late model 3-Spoke alloy wheels, what appear to be floating front brake discs and 16-Valve model main-stand.

When it comes to the side panels missing, they turn up on ebay quite cheap or Motorworks sell them second-hand for about 40 quid.

Thanks for that, I know bugger all about these bikes so any info is very welcome. I will look out for some side panels, it certainly looks unfinished without them. I beginning to think I should keep the bike, only problem is I shall have to be very nice to Ros for a very long time to gain domestic approval. Not sure I am up to it!

I'm certainly looking forward to riding it, I think it will be local style, a quick blast before it is legal here but unlike the locals I will wear a helmet.

John

 

[MikeP]

Thanks for that, I know bugger all about these bikes so any info is very welcome. I will look out for some side panels, it certainly looks unfinished without them. I beginning to think I should keep the bike, only problem is I shall have to be very nice to Ros for a very long time to gain domestic approval. Not sure I am up to it!

I'm certainly looking forward to riding it, I think it will be local style, a quick blast before it is legal here but unlike the locals I will wear a helmet.

John

I think that you may find that you are pleasantly surprised when you ride it. It may feel a little top-heavy at first, especially at low speeds but most Brick owners soon learn to use that to tip in to slow turns and pick it up on the throttle.

Are those discs floating or are the "bobbins" just large screws and washers holding the disc to the carrier?

Does this give you any incentive to keep the yellow?

It's an American's bike so you have to excuse the urge to hang extra lights on it.

 

[The Grey One]

I think that you may find that you are pleasantly surprised when you ride it. It may feel a little top-heavy at first, especially at low speeds but most Brick owners soon learn to use that to tip in to slow turns and pick it up on the throttle.

Are those discs floating or are the "bobbins" just large screws and washers holding the disc to the carrier?

They are floating, either that or the bolts are loose! As I said I know nothing about the K series. I got this one by default but I have enjoyed working on it.

John

 

[The Grey One]

Headlamp lens, or complete unit needed

I need to fit a headlamp or just the lens for registering the bike here in Austria. Must have right hand dip to comply with the regs here. First test has to be carried out a ministry testing station and I don't think they will be as accommodating as my local tester! I'm in the UK for two more weeks (SWMBO for three weeks) so if anyone can help let me know. Thanks

John

 

[The Grey One]

Bugger! I have an oil leak

The right hand dip headlamp is now fitted and I hope to be off to the official testing station first thing on Wednesday to see if I can get it registered here.

Everything works but I now have an oil leak (gearbox oil) Didn't happen before I had the box out, and yes there was oil in the box then. There is a split in the gaiter for the clutch push rod and gear oil drips out.

Given that what I know about these bikes could be written on the back of a postage stamp can someone tell me if the problem is just this gaiter or an oil seal further in. I did replace the felt seal on the push rod when I had the box out. I only took it out because I wanted to check the condition of all the splines following on from the drive shaft failure. I put in a new clutch, refitted the box, drained and refilled the oil and there was the leak.

John

 

[kennyc]

The right hand dip headlamp is now fitted and I hope to be off to the official testing station first thing on Wednesday to see if I can get it registered here.

Everything works but I now have an oil leak (gearbox oil) Didn't happen before I had the box out, and yes there was oil in the box then. There is a split in the gaiter for the clutch push rod and gear oil drips out.

Given that what I know about these bikes could be written on the back of a postage stamp can someone tell me if the problem is just this gaiter or an oil seal further in. I did replace the felt seal on the push rod when I had the box out. I only took it out because I wanted to check the condition of all the splines following on from the drive shaft failure. I put in a new clutch, refitted the box, drained and refilled the oil and there was the leak.

John

heres the ultimate "how to" it runs to 6 parts and contains some language ! Chris is insistent that you replace the gaiter each time you go in, he also is very quick to answer questions
edit part 2 4.00 on is the bit about the "boot"

 

[MikeP]

Given that what I know about these bikes could be written on the back of a postage stamp can someone tell me if the problem is just this gaiter or an oil seal further in.

John, there's no oil seal, just the gaiter. They're quite pricey for a small rubber gaiter as there's a bonded-in metal collar.

Unless you know for certain that it's split, try doing-up the clip tighter and make certain that it's seated correctly all the way around. It doesn't take much for it to start leaving a small drip if it's not seated or fully tightened.

 

[The Grey One]

John, there's no oil seal, just the gaiter. They're quite pricey for a small rubber gaiter as there's a bonded-in metal collar.

Unless you know for certain that it's split, try doing-up the clip tighter and make certain that it's seated correctly all the way around. It doesn't take much for it to start leaving a small drip if it's not seated or fully tightened.

Thanks Mike, I can see a small split in it and yes £13 from Motorworks seems expensive. Until you go to the BMW dealer here in Austria. "no problem sir, I can get you one for tomorrow" How much I ask, "30 Euros"

I can wait for Motorworks! Parts for the GS arrived here in two days.

John

 

[seahorse]

Mine is leaking at the moment too. I have noticed that Sherlocks also do one (pattern) for about £13, but also list an original one which is £20. I only changed mine last year so am wondering if I used a pattern one and they are not as good. Will probably go for the Sherlocks OE one now.
In the meantime I am just using the side stand as it only leaks when parked if on the centre stand.