LAMPF

2007 r1200 gs.

LAMPF warning came up on dash. Changed both bulbs. High beam bulb blown. Still have dash warning and the head lamp is working when I switch on the high beam but is off the rest of the time. Use to he always on. Any ideas? Thanks.
From an old post on here;

had the same Lamf on my 1200GS a couple of months ago. Booked it in at the dealers, and guess what? The morning I started off there it the fault was not showing.....:blast............
Set off anyway to see if it reoccured but once at the dealers they told me that if they wired the bike up to the diagnostic thingy it would give them a 'Fault History'.
True to their word it indicated that the fault was an intermitant loose conection of the rear light. Not enough to make the light fail, but enough to show a voltage drop.
They replaced the rear light unit complete and the fault did not reoccur. :clap
 
its VERY common these days a filament falls off one side and can rattle about giving intermittent fun - it will fail fully soon enough

as written multiple times LAMPF has the F for bulb failure at the FRONT and the LAMPR is at the back
 
its VERY common these days a filament falls off one side and can rattle about giving intermittent fun - it will fail fully soon enough

as written multiple times LAMPF has the F for bulb failure at the FRONT and the LAMPR is at the back

theoretically but as reported by me and others, a faulty number plate light can throw up a LAMPF code

BMW's code is imperfect
 
Well, finally got round to having a look at this. I managed to get the brake light assembly off. The amount of brackets etc that were on the bike for boxes etc. Anyway, just to get back up to speed. I've changed both front bulbs. I've replaced the crimp connections on the 'dodgy' one. Still getting LampF. It's an after market led light. Here is a photo. I'm going to replace all the shrink cable thingies before it goes back in.

Where is the number plate light?!!!

Everything has continuity. Indicators work fine. Brake light works as it should? Both resistors are reading 100 ohms. That makes it sound like I know what I'm talking about but chat gpt has been of a little use. I'll head back to the unit now to search for the numberplate light after I channel my inner Alan milanard and get a cup of tea and a biscuit!
 

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Did the warning coincide with the headlamp bulb failing? Did u replace it with a LED bulb? JJH
 
Also, the high beam …

Hang on …

I’m a fucking idiot


As you were

Stoooooooopid
 

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Don't.. A big problem with troubleshooting is that often we overlook the simple, basic things. 😊
 
Don't.. A big problem with troubleshooting is that often we overlook the simple, basic things. 😊

ha! I think I'm the simple basic thing here lol!

in fairness, glad I spent the afternoon tinkering. It's been a while. Removed the metal box rails - I haven't used them in a good few years and had a good look at the brake light assembly. It was a bit dirty in there and I disconnected all the spade connectors, gave them a sand and reinstalled them with fresh shrink plastic. Or what ever it is called. Nice to be able to bring the bike into the back garden as well. Think I'll take the crash bars off next week and sand them down and give them a rattle can facelift. d

I'll do a service in a couple of weeks and I think I might treat the bike to a full set of new shiny fasteners from Motorworks at some point.
 
Just had a LampF fault today... Main beam failure. I would not mind, but it's not even a cheap bulb or been in long.. 😞
 
I just started seeing a LampF fault on my 2012 air/oil. It's had an LED headlamp fitted since I got it about 10 months ago, has the original LED indicators and rear light. The only visible fault is the right Indicators flash double time, but if I put the hazards on they go at normal rate... ??? Any ideas.
 
There is not a separate flasher unit on the 2012 GS.
The flash rate is controlled by the ECU ,my first option would be to disconnect the battery for five minutes to see if it clears a software glitch.
 
Just had a LampF fault today... Main beam failure. I would not mind, but it's not even a cheap bulb or been in long.. 😞
bulb failure test voltage spike - kills the bulbs prematurely - fit an LED just to see the spike (remember if it doesn't draw enough current the bike will have a hissy fit and turn it on and off like a fool) - when you crank the bike the headlamp will flash for a split second - you'll not see with std halogen bulb as too slow to react and needs a higher current... the idiots at ford use the same stupid idea - it pops her lights all day long too

seems to do it at start up and on a 10 min cycle - often throws a 20W LED headlamp bulb in a spate of confusion - gave up trying as it was random how long it turned itself off for / and if it could be bothered to come back on at key on off cycle - the fix is to use a resistor that brings it back to wasting as much current at the std filament needs - but need another round rear lamp cover to cut up to get a resistor room to play

 
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