New Bike - Corrosion Test
- Thread starter Warlord
- Start date
Hairyweasel
Registered user
Who has time to wash their bike after every ride though? We are not all retired.
Mine is now 3 months old 3k miles, ACF50 from new and I washed it for the first time last weekend.
Well when I say washed it I covered it in sdoc 100, left it for 15 to 20 mins then sprayed it off using a pressure wash.
Before anyone starts I used a fine wide spray setting and held it at least 1/2 mtr from the bike.
No corrosion or paint damage yet but some of the bolt heads look a little bit discoloured but nothing drastic.
I'll get something me pics up next weekend, too busy polishing the Thruxton at the moment
I'll get something me pics up next weekend, too busy polishing the Thruxton at the moment
However a salesman who is into bikes was visiting our company on Thursday and we got talking about bikes, he said I guess that's your 'minty' GS parked out the front
I understand that, and there are remedies like ACF50 applications, and others. Even a fresh water rince can help.
Using a jet wash and only water is also not bad (providing you keep high pressure away from grease, seals and electrics).
The BIG problem is garage forecourt Jet Washers with FOAM (AND DOMESTIC SNOW FOAM applications). Its Caustic Detergents stripping any protection off the bikes thats killing them.
In addition don't ever leave salt on the bikes from winter road applications, coastal sea areas etc. Wash it off immediately.
At least it'll give your bike a chance.
Genuinely not having a go - for some, cleaning cars and bikes is a bit of a hobby that you make time for if you can - but I'm not convinced it's a great idea to wait 3 months to wash, acf50 or not
. As above, not a bad idea to at least to carefully jet wash some fresh water over it*I can't find a spec for sdoc 100, other than the fact than it's purportedly ph neutral. I can't think how a spray-on degreaser that you leave for 15 mins and then simply jet off can work without at least being alkaline-based (if not acid-based). Such products will cause small/thin brightwork like bolt heads to discolour. Degreasers usually come with instructions to jet off before they dry. Personally I wouldn't leave it on bright work for more than a few minutes.
If you're not into spending a lot of time on cleaning and protection, and are happy to use a pressure washer, you might want to consider something like Gyeon Wet Look as a protection once you've cleaned the bike. It's simply spray on, jet off immediately (and thoroughly).
*ordinarily I'd go into detail about getting a in-line filter if you're in a hard water area, but I have a feeling I'm not in the detailing section of the forum...
Hairyweasel
Registered user
It's what I have always done using the same cleaner and same protection
, last few bikes have been, a Triumph, a yamaha, a Kawasaki, a Harley and a BMW.
The first 3 stayed mint using this method.
The Harley I didn't keep long enough to rust because I got fed up of bits dropping off.
The BMW corroded very very bad in the 2 years I owned it but I changed from ACF50 to Scott oiler 365 on the recommendation from a friend and it didn't work, at least not for me.
I will be doing the same with my LC.
A good coating of ACF50 twice a year. Just before road salt and once again in late spring.
A few washes with sdoc through summer/autumn. Just a hose off after a ride in winter to remove salt but no detergent because I don't want to wash off the ACF50.
If it corrodes it corrodes.
Actually I am breaking from the norm this year. In a couple of weeks we set off to France following the coast down towards Spain.
As it's all coast roads with salt potential I will be reapply the ACF50 before we go as the sdoc probably removed most of it.
, last few bikes have been, a Triumph, a yamaha, a Kawasaki, a Harley and a BMW.
The first 3 stayed mint using this method.
The Harley I didn't keep long enough to rust because I got fed up of bits dropping off.
The BMW corroded very very bad in the 2 years I owned it but I changed from ACF50 to Scott oiler 365 on the recommendation from a friend and it didn't work, at least not for me.
I will be doing the same with my LC.
A good coating of ACF50 twice a year. Just before road salt and once again in late spring.
A few washes with sdoc through summer/autumn. Just a hose off after a ride in winter to remove salt but no detergent because I don't want to wash off the ACF50.
If it corrodes it corrodes.
Actually I am breaking from the norm this year. In a couple of weeks we set off to France following the coast down towards Spain.
As it's all coast roads with salt potential I will be reapply the ACF50 before we go as the sdoc probably removed most of it.
There is no need to get so precious about coast roads. I live on an island 9 miles by 5. My bikes have not dissolved. Obviously on a spring tide, if the sea breaches the sea walls and floods the road; a I take the car or B I avoid the coast road.
Unless there is a forecast for a tsunami in Spain during your holiday then I wouldn't worry about AFC 50.
I have lived on islands surrounded by sea all my life. I know what I'm talking about. I have webbed feet to prove it
Unless there is a forecast for a tsunami in Spain during your holiday then I wouldn't worry about AFC 50.
I have lived on islands surrounded by sea all my life. I know what I'm talking about. I have webbed feet to prove it
I have webbed feet to prove it
Pics or it never happened
EDIT: NO wait, we believe you
The gene pool is getting shallower and shallower here................
That said they even ran out of water in Guernsey years ago.
That said they even ran out of water in Guernsey years ago.
I'm going to disagree. This is not the perfect comparison.
If the bikes came off the production line at the same time it would be a good start, but the fact that they have not means it's pretty much irrelevant from a comparison viewpoint. If they had you could reasonably assume the materials used came from the same batches and went through exactly the same processes.
The fact that his has gone through one more winter compounds the issue.
Additionally, there are other things that that should be considered.
I am surprised that the foam is that 'caustic' to cause the corrosion you claim. It is a wash off product, in that it's only on there for a few minutes. I am pretty sure the manufacturers would be spending huge sums on compensation if it is as you say.
Where does this claim come from?
Yep, the comparison is bollocks
I liked it
Once again JB. Harsh, but true.
Ok, firstly you've been identified as a wind up merchant so you've no place in this thread except to cause trouble. Unless you actually have an intelligent argument based upon experience or facts, fuck off
Secondly, just because you are 'surprised' at information I've presented doesn't automatically mean I'm wrong.
Go educate yourself and come back here with a considered argument.
I'm not running around after your whims when you most likely don't give a shit anyways. Go find the information yourself.
Ok, firstly you've been identified as a wind up merchant so you've no place in this thread except to cause trouble. Unless you actually have an intelligent argument based upon experience or facts, fuck off
Calm down dear
Your comparison with a similar model bike isn't valid
As my learned friend pointed out your bike and the other bike might have different components and paint finishes
BMW constantly upgrade models through the year and change components
Similarly your mate has run through winter and you haven't - so not a real comparison
I honestly don't mind talking about it, and I'm happy to hear a constructive argument.
Going into the batch code argument is just so technically granular that it's a smoke screen. Because equally, you can't say that my bike wasn't from the same factory, painted by the same guy with the same paint code batch. Not for certain could you? So that argument is so fraught with 'what if's', unless someone can absolutely confirm BMW changed manufacturing strategy within 6 months of producing our Triple Blacks, it's a mute argument.
So my point is, while there are bikes scattered all around the world with various degrees of rust issues, I would say it is perfectly reasonable to select two identical model bikes within 6 months apart, that live in the same environment.
That's reasonable isn't it?
As far as the caustic detergents issue. It's a known fact. Cars don't suffer as much, due to everything on a car being under-sealed, plastic or aluminium, and I mean everything. Bumpers, headlights, mirrors, skirting, engine under-trays.. even most bonnets and wheels now are alloy, so don't rust. It's only a few parts that are steel that you can physically see (like wheel hubs, and they rust to bits !!).
So Jet Washing a car in Caustic Foam isn't anywhere near as precarious (except for diamond cut alloys, which lacquer gets wrecked by it).
Motorcycles like the BMW R1200GS is a particular difficult case in my opinion.
A) It's a very difficult form factor to clean easily. So people will just use a Jet Wash. As I've said to my friends, it's like giving Optimus Prime a bed bath !!
B) Most people do not realise the damage Jet Washers do to motorcycles, so will quickly blame the outcome on anybody else except themselves.
C) BMW owner Demographics point to those who will complain quickest and expect the most. It's that 'prestige' bollocks that causes the 'I shouldn't have to look after it, it should look after me'.
But some things, especially with motorcycles, can be prevented with some education, care and attention.
So we know that Salt is an absolute killer to motorcycles. It gets everywhere and rots everything.
We know Caustic Foam Detergent used in Jet Washers is an absolutely killer to motorcycles. It gets everywhere and rots everything.
So mine will have exposure to neither.
Which means if the paint has been applied to a rusting frame from the factory (as its been suggested) I will get rust coming through regardless.
Personally I think that argument is bollocks, but we shall see.
If it turns out I'm right, and its salt and caustic detergent, then at least the owners can do something about it.
My belief is it is nothing to do with BMW and its paint or frame. It's the above two culprits and lack of education to some owners !!
We know Caustic Foam Detergent used in Jet Washers is an absolutely killer to motorcycles. It gets everywhere and rots everything.
So mine will have exposure to neither.
Which means if the paint has been applied to a rusting frame from the factory (as its been suggested) I will get rust coming through regardless.
Personally I think that argument is bollocks, but we shall see.
If it turns out I'm right, and its salt and caustic detergent, then at least the owners can do something about it.
My belief is it is nothing to do with BMW and its paint or frame. It's the above two culprits and lack of education to some owners !!
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