- Joined
- Jul 14, 2010
- Messages
- 10,367
- Reaction score
- 3,600
At these prices order one of each(I’m assuming it’s a 4 pin relay)
New year, new project bike
- Thread starter Mad Hatter
- Start date
At these prices order one of each(I’m assuming it’s a 4 pin relay)
Unfortunately neither Motorworks, Motobins, or BMW have the relay in stock. Helpfully though the BMW parts catalog shows the pin layout (type A) and internal connections. The relay has a resistor between pins 85 and 86, so the ones that Mikeyboy suggested are incorrect. Durite sell the correct relay though, with the resistor, and the part number is 0-727-63, costing £7.61 from Bristol Autoparts. Sorted 
Different topic, thinking ahead to paint, does anyone know if it’s possible to paint the type of plastic that Acerbis is use for the Baja rear mudguard?
I was going to fit this used stator that I bought from Motorworks but decided not to risk it given the state of the coils and the rust on the iron laminates. Bit the bullet and ordered the enduralast 400 watt kit. I keep telling myself it‘s only money, can’t take it with you 
Are the ashtrays full? 
Bit shit isn’t it. Motorworks are generally brilliant but occasionally they‘ve let me downAre the ashtrays full?
Nearly finished the electrics, just waiting on a couple of parts then she’s ready to fire up. Can anyone give me a recommendation for a painter? The guy I normally use is very very good, but also very expensive and as this bike is going to be used in anger I don’t want to spend too much on paint. Anyone know of a decent painter who can paint plastic and doesn’t charge the earth?
- Joined
- Jul 14, 2010
- Messages
- 10,367
- Reaction score
- 3,600
Text sent ref paintman
Ta Mikey
I knew it was going too smoothly…….
I finished installing all of the electrics, checked and double checked I’d connected everything correctly and then very very tentitively connected up the battery terminals. I was expecting a big blue spark and sizzling sound but nothing happened and all of the magic smoke stayed inside the wires - so far so good. I turned the ignition switch to the first position and the front and rear side lights came on - all good. I then turned it to the second position and the ignition lamp came on, plus the oil lamp, plus the dipped beam, plus the acewell dash lit up and cycled the needle to max speed and back. Then I tested the switches…..horn - good, main beam - good, flash - good, left indicator - good, right indicator - good, rear brake switch - good, front brake switch - good, neutral switch - good. The only thing that was odd was that the coil made a short buzz as the ignition switched on. It did this every time I switched on the ignition. I swapped the ignition unit for a good used one and again got a buzz but this time a different pitch and longer duration. My GS Basic doesn’t do this so I thought something was wrong, but as no smoke was coming out from anywhere I decided to risk spinning the motor and checking for sparks. I pulled the plugs and earthed them then with fingers crossed I turned the ignition on and was surprised to see that the buzz I was hearing was linked to the spark plugs firing. Still no smoke though so I hit the starter and spun the motor with the plugs out and earthed until the oil pressure light went out. While I was doing this the spark plugs appeared to be firing normally. I tried this with the new ignition unit and the used one. Same result. My question for you airhead aficionado‘s is whether this buzz thing is normal or do I have a problem?
I finished installing all of the electrics, checked and double checked I’d connected everything correctly and then very very tentitively connected up the battery terminals. I was expecting a big blue spark and sizzling sound but nothing happened and all of the magic smoke stayed inside the wires - so far so good. I turned the ignition switch to the first position and the front and rear side lights came on - all good. I then turned it to the second position and the ignition lamp came on, plus the oil lamp, plus the dipped beam, plus the acewell dash lit up and cycled the needle to max speed and back. Then I tested the switches…..horn - good, main beam - good, flash - good, left indicator - good, right indicator - good, rear brake switch - good, front brake switch - good, neutral switch - good. The only thing that was odd was that the coil made a short buzz as the ignition switched on. It did this every time I switched on the ignition. I swapped the ignition unit for a good used one and again got a buzz but this time a different pitch and longer duration. My GS Basic doesn’t do this so I thought something was wrong, but as no smoke was coming out from anywhere I decided to risk spinning the motor and checking for sparks. I pulled the plugs and earthed them then with fingers crossed I turned the ignition on and was surprised to see that the buzz I was hearing was linked to the spark plugs firing. Still no smoke though so I hit the starter and spun the motor with the plugs out and earthed until the oil pressure light went out. While I was doing this the spark plugs appeared to be firing normally. I tried this with the new ignition unit and the used one. Same result. My question for you airhead aficionado‘s is whether this buzz thing is normal or do I have a problem?
Tumbleweed…………..any airhead electrical experts out there?
We're all out riding.....
Does the bike run?
I've never heard a buzz. Are you sure it's the coil?
Does the bike run?
I've never heard a buzz. Are you sure it's the coil?
Yup, defo coming from coil. Bike not ready to fire up yet, need to strip and rebuild the fuel tap. Going to check all my connections are correct again and if that doesn’t sort it I’ll try some swapnostics. I did read on snowbum’s site that the coils are energised for a period as soon as you turn the ignition on and then if the motor isn’t turning the ignition unit cuts power to the coils after a certain period of time which differs depending on the part number of the ignition unit. This may explain what’s happening but not why the coils are noisy……
Check the HT leads are fully home?
Looks fantastic without paint. A lot of dirt bikes run natural coloured plastics.
Will do, I had similar thought - maybe arcing somewhere on the HT side
I agree but every single piece of bodywork is a different shade of white at the mo, which is bugging me
Finally got finished working on other bikes and back to this one. I haven’t solved the coil noise mystery yet but I’ve just bumped into another problem, this time with the clutch switch……
the problem is that the switch isn’t switching when the lever is released/pulled in because the plunger on the micro switch is too short and the lever doesn’t move it enough to switch.
Has anyone encountered this before or have I cocked something up?
This is the version of clutch perch/switch I’m using
the problem is that the switch isn’t switching when the lever is released/pulled in because the plunger on the micro switch is too short and the lever doesn’t move it enough to switch.
Has anyone encountered this before or have I cocked something up?
This is the version of clutch perch/switch I’m using
Think I might have found an answer, apparently the new clutch switches are slightly oversize so they don’t go in far enough. seems you have to sand them down a bit before they will slot all the way into the recess. Bastard, I’ll have to pull it all apart again. Oh hum
May I ask where you got your heated grips switch from, please?
Similar threads
