Power socket questions...

[Ash700]

I've searched the forum for this particular subject and found details of how to add an additional 12v power socket, but noticed that it was on an earlier canbus GS. On the thread someone mentioned that they only got about 15 mins of power when they plugged their heated (BMW) vest into the socket before it shut down! It was suggested that it was because of the canbus and the solution would be to fit an additional fused socket for the purpose of plugging in heated clothing.

My questions are:

1. Is this still the same situation for the latest WC GSA?
2. Does anyone know how much current / power can be drawn from the WC GSA socket?

Thanking you in advance...

 

[chrisjk]

Can't answer your questions but the first thing I do with a new bike is to add a Fuzeblock, Centech etc so that I can later add stuff like heated jacket, chargers for electronics, tyre pump and whatnot. Chances are you might want to charge your phone while your jacket is plugged-in, assuming the load hasn't triggered the ZFE to cut power to the socket.

 

[SMB]

I've searched the forum for this particular subject and found details of how to add an additional 12v power socket, but noticed that it was on an earlier canbus GS. On the thread someone mentioned that they only got about 15 mins of power when they plugged their heated (BMW) vest into the socket before it shut down! It was suggested that it was because of the canbus and the solution would be to fit an additional fused socket for the purpose of plugging in heated clothing.

My questions are:

1. Is this still the same situation for the latest WC GSA?
2. Does anyone know how much current / power can be drawn from the WC GSA socket?

Thanking you in advance...

The canbus on the GSWC system does cut the power to the aux socket if it exceeds 5A.

If you are running close to 5A (a little over) it may not cut it off immediately.

 

[Ash700]

Thanks guys. I'm now wondering what the power socket is for? It doesn't seem to be much use, as it won't even power BMW's own heated vest?!

 

[chrisjk]

Thanks guys. I'm now wondering what the power socket is for? It doesn't seem to be much use, as it won't even power BMW's own heated vest?!

Before I got around to fitting a Fuzeblock to my new WC GSA and before my Nav V arrived, I used it power a Zumo 550 and to charge a phone. You can do both at the same time if you get a suitable USB adapter, there's ample current for that.

 

[RobertG]

Before I got around to fitting a Fuzeblock to my new WC GSA and before my Nav V arrived, I used it power a Zumo 550 and to charge a phone. You can do both at the same time if you get a suitable USB adapter, there's ample current for that.

The ZFE will cut power to the sockets at around 5A as already said. If you are going to run anything close to that then you are better off fitting a fuse block of some description. There are other benefits to this route as well. 1) The system keeps the socket live after you power off for a while to see if you are going to plug in a BMW charger. If you do it keeps the socket live. There are reports of the system randomly keeping the socket live when a SatNav is attached to it and then you come back to a drained bike. A fuse block eliminates this (if you trigger it from a switched live like the rear light). 2) if there is a problem with anything electrical on the bike, you pull one wire (the switched live) and it disconnects all your handy work and the dealer can't be blaming your electrical improvisations for the problem.

 

[snaponphil]

My thoughts guys.. (GS WC )
I'm currently travelling/touring & live off my bike (mostly), I use a G9 Bluetooth to connect to my sat nav, I use a Ghost S helmet Cam, iPhone 5 to google maps/route to load trips on my Nav 5.. & a heated vest ( needed occasionally)
Yesterday, after long days riding all went flat at approx the same time, & at the end of the journey as I approached the city I didn't want to lose the Sat nav voice instructions ( I like voice in addition to visual maps when in traffic)
So, sun shining, I'm thinking, pull over & time for coffee, charge headset for half an hour, & off I go..

Problem..
Using original dash mounted power outlet, I needed to leave key in ignition in on position, (not always convenient or secure) & also thinking lights etc draining bike battery, last thing I need in a foreign country is flat battery on a mountainside..

Solution..
bike needs a seperate fused supply in addition to the heated vest supply I already wired direct to battery.. Very cheap if you can fit it yourself, & anyone who needs anything more than that must run LOTS of extra electrical items..

I use Keiss heated bits from here
http://www.sportsbikeshop.co.uk/motorcycle_parts/content_prod/196536
Wire direct to battery & it'll run jacket, gloves & feet warmers no problem (suggest controller or u'll cook)

Hope that helps guys..

 

[Ash700]

Yes, thanks to everyone for all your comments on this. As a result, I'm going to wire the heated vest in via a separate fused line, as you have all suggested. As a separate point of interest, I've researched heated vests and I think I'm going to go with the EXO2 StormRider - seems to get very good reviews! I'll probably get myself a phone charging lead so that I can at least get some use from the factory fitted power socket; there's not a lot else I'd use it for. Here was me, thinking that I'd use it to power my heated vest!

Thanks again.

 

[Pete1200]

ignition live power supply

On my last two GSs I have used the following, Denali 194 Marker Bulb CAN-BUS Adaptor For Some BMW, Ducati & Triumph Motorcycles, from Twisted Throttle in the States. It is a simple adaptor socket that fits between the wiring socket and the pilot light bulb. This has a trailing lead which supplies enough power to operate a relay without upsetting the Canbus system. I fitted the relay under the seat and then a secondary fuse panel, in my case the Centech panel from Nippy Norman.This provides several fused take off points that are ignition live. I used this setup to power louder horns, a secondary 12v socket on the dash and daytime riding LEDs under each hand guard with no problems
The one potential problem is fitting the adaptor the wrong way up in the bulb socket but this is a simple turn it the other way up job, so don't heat shrink it together until tested.
one caveat, when fitting electrics under the seat, seal the rubber strap where it goes into the wheel area with mastic or some such. This will keep things much cleaner/drier.

 

[DC]

i had a similar prob on the RT.LC i obtained an adapter for my optimate that you just push into the bike socket and it charges ! it did this for 10 mins then cut itself off !! what use is that ? about as much use as rocking horse shit !