Great progress Pete, thanks for all the info and pics will be valuable later on for someone else's project as well 
Project Katmandu: GS rebuild
- Thread starter pete.keys
- Start date
Mort
Registered user
Cracking thread....now then, would anyone like to post one about making a cafe racer from an 81 R100RS
Hi Rob,
Thanks - that will be interesting to try. i can see different types of inserts: What type of inserts did you use?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/THREADED-INSERTS-THIN-SHEET-NUTSERTS-4MM-x-50-/200505111254?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2eaf0932d6#ht_2047wt_911
I've found the plastex ok
Pete,
The inserts on your link aren't the right ones for the repair you are making. The ones in your link are for thin metal sheet.
http://insertsdirect.com/ have loads to choose from. They have an ebay shop with their inserts for plastics Ebay link Don't go for the inserts with a slot down the side, the plastex will flow into it and clog the thread, the blind ones are the best Link
The plastex is a strange material to work with but once you get the hang if it it works a treat. It's basically plexiglass and bonds well to other plastics --> MMA
The knack comes in getting the inserts positioned correctly and the plastex fully bonded to the insert and the housing at the same time, however you seem like a man who likes a challenge
With the speedo housing I found I needed to chop most of the broken plastic away and recreate it.
Cracking thread....now then, would anyone like to post one about making a cafe racer from an 81 R100RS
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=210313&highlight=cafe+racer
Pete,
The inserts on your link aren't the right ones for the repair you are making. The ones in your link are for thin metal sheet.
http://insertsdirect.com/ have loads to choose from. They have an ebay shop with their inserts for plastics Ebay link Don't go for the inserts with a slot down the side, the plastex will flow into it and clog the thread, the blind ones are the best Link
The plastex is a strange material to work with but once you get the hang if it it works a treat. It's basically plexiglass and bonds well to other plastics --> MMA
The knack comes in getting the inserts positioned correctly and the plastex fully bonded to the insert and the housing at the same time, however you seem like a man who likes a challenge
With the speedo housing I found I needed to chop most of the broken plastic away and recreate it.
Nice links - I've always wondered where you get those inserts
Where do you get plastex (the headlamp surround on my 1100 needs a new insert)?
There are others on the market and some folk prefer and get good results with araldite.
Plastech
or the smaller kit Small Plastech
Plastech
or the smaller kit Small Plastech
Mort
Registered user
Cheers Rob, lots of inspiration there
just bought the plastex and inserts , then realized i could get a second hand cowl for less of ebay - hey ho it'll be more fun to fix the one I've got
Yeah, you can ride along, looking at it, full of a sense of achievement! LOL. Been cleaning the frame up. Templates later. I'll give you a shout once I have something to show you.
Digital speedo
Got this Koso unit about 5years ago for another project that didn't finish. Hadn't even taken the wrapper off it!
Its got a rev counter, speedo, clock, temperature guage and lights for indicators, oil pressure, generator, hazzards, headlight, main beam.
Wired it up to my running G/S to see what it was like in terms of screen and to see what the rec counter was like.
Not sure it isn't too ugly to go on the new bike!! If I keep it I'll have to work out how mount it on/over the instrument binnacle.
Perhaps I should use a satnav instead? I always fancied an FM radio and mp3 player on my commute bike but could never find one suitable...
Got this Koso unit about 5years ago for another project that didn't finish. Hadn't even taken the wrapper off it!
Its got a rev counter, speedo, clock, temperature guage and lights for indicators, oil pressure, generator, hazzards, headlight, main beam.
Wired it up to my running G/S to see what it was like in terms of screen and to see what the rec counter was like.
Not sure it isn't too ugly to go on the new bike!! If I keep it I'll have to work out how mount it on/over the instrument binnacle.
Perhaps I should use a satnav instead? I always fancied an FM radio and mp3 player on my commute bike but could never find one suitable...
DRZ front wheel and Rib's spacer arrive
Put Rob's spacer in on the headstock .. thanks Rob "
It really needs to be 1 to 2mm thicker - I must have mis-measured so I'll get the next one made that big and probably thicker that originally stated.
The DRZ front wheel arrived today. Difficult to know tall the big is going to be until I have done the rear and the big is sitting under its own weight
Hopefully the renthal handlebars and front disk will arrive tommorrow so that'll be the front end bits all there.
I'll then be waiting for the monolever, bevel drive and wheel to finish being done... no idea how long thats going to take. Wish I had another standard rear wheel - I'd put the paralever back on and give it a spin
hmm I could always take the mono and wheel off my g/s
Put Rob's spacer in on the headstock .. thanks Rob "
It really needs to be 1 to 2mm thicker - I must have mis-measured so I'll get the next one made that big and probably thicker that originally stated.
The DRZ front wheel arrived today. Difficult to know tall the big is going to be until I have done the rear and the big is sitting under its own weight
Hopefully the renthal handlebars and front disk will arrive tommorrow so that'll be the front end bits all there.
I'll then be waiting for the monolever, bevel drive and wheel to finish being done... no idea how long thats going to take. Wish I had another standard rear wheel - I'd put the paralever back on and give it a spin
hmm I could always take the mono and wheel off my g/s
Pete,
Are you looking for a spacer 42 od, 30 Id, 12mm thick ?
Are you looking for a spacer 42 od, 30 Id, 12mm thick ?
yep. It looks like I under measured the thickness required I said 10mm but needs 12mm. When I put your space in, the stem nut tightened down on it fine. I put the top brace on but the final top nut on the stem which is capped didn't tighten down enough to clamp the top yolk onto the lower nut. (does that all make sense?). The OD could be larger up to to 46mm. I'v given the details to Dave (machinist)- but don't know when he'll get around to doing all my stuff. I think my excitement
has put him off a bit! 
I'll see what I can do.
So 46 OD, 30 ID and 12mm thickness. Are you sure 12mm is enough?
So 46 OD, 30 ID and 12mm thickness. Are you sure 12mm is enough?
Hmm I'll double & triple check tonight
Got the rear wheel back from shot blasting the hub. It came up really clean but the finish is quite rough. I thought it would be smoother.
I thought the spoke were stainless, they were to perfect on a tatty bike to be anything else. Shot blasting i thought wouldn't be an issue. They would go a bit dull but then I'd polish them back up when I polished the rim. .. wrong .. they must have been chrome as the chrome has been blasted back to the copper :-(. So now I **have** to get the wheel rebuilt rather than it being just an option :-(
There is still a lip on the steel rim, so will have to get it machined off.
Would like an opinion to solve this problem of corrosion and pitting. How about anodising the entire wheel? Is that feasible in view of the difficulties in re-lacing the crossed-spokes?
Cheers
progress - hmm how long will this machining take
Waiting for the machining to be done and started working on the exact point to mount the lower shock mount given that I will use the existing GS top mount point.
First drew picture taking into account all the important measurements on the G/S and GS
Next worked out all the angles and relationships so that I could work out the effect of putting the monolever on the GS
Once I had done this worked out the effect of extending the monolever. Then varied the length of D (distance from pivot to lower shock mount point) to see the effect on suspension height. The table show incrementing by 14 as i think I can get away with multiple pivot mount holes at 14mm between centres.
Waiting for the machining to be done and started working on the exact point to mount the lower shock mount given that I will use the existing GS top mount point.
First drew picture taking into account all the important measurements on the G/S and GS
Next worked out all the angles and relationships so that I could work out the effect of putting the monolever on the GS
Once I had done this worked out the effect of extending the monolever. Then varied the length of D (distance from pivot to lower shock mount point) to see the effect on suspension height. The table show incrementing by 14 as i think I can get away with multiple pivot mount holes at 14mm between centres.
ians
Registered user
Waiting for the machining to be done and started working on the exact point to mount the lower shock mount given that I will use the existing GS top mount point.
First drew picture taking into account all the important measurements on the G/S and GS
Next worked out all the angles and relationships so that I could work out the effect of putting the monolever on the GS
Once I had done this worked out the effect of extending the monolever. Then varied the length of D (distance from pivot to lower shock mount point) to see the effect on suspension height. The table show incrementing by 14 as i think I can get away with multiple pivot mount holes at 14mm between centres.
That makes my head hurt.
You cant do anodising without taking ALL the steel off first any way, anodising is an acid dip process
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