Project Katmandu: GS rebuild

[colint]

Got the rear wheel back from shot blasting the hub. It came up really clean but the finish is quite rough. I thought it would be smoother.

I thought the spoke were stainless, they were to perfect on a tatty bike to be anything else. Shot blasting i thought wouldn't be an issue. They would go a bit dull but then I'd polish them back up when I polished the rim. .. wrong .. they must have been chrome as the chrome has been blasted back to the copper :-(. So now I **have** to get the wheel rebuilt rather than it being just an option :-(

There is still a lip on the steel rim, so will have to get it machined off.

There is a guy in Yorkshire who will rebuild these wheels providing you remove the old spokes I just used an angle grinder to cut the spokes but then it took me a week to remove them from the rims/hubs.
He has done mine in the last couple of weeks and i must say he did a fantastic job.
I bought the spokes from Motorworks and they have his contact details.

 

[Padmei]

There is a guy in Yorkshire who will rebuild these wheels providing you remove the old spokes I just used an angle grinder to cut the spokes but then it took me a week to remove them from the rims/hubs.
He has done mine in the last couple of weeks and i must say he did a fantastic job.
I bought the spokes from Motorworks and they have his contact details.

Did you powdercoat the hub & rims at the same time? Were they thesame kind of condition as these? What kinda price would you be looking at?

 

[slowkitty]

Yup; interested in rebuilding these cross-spokes too.

Appreciate details on the gent who can do this.

 

[pete.keys]

sorting out the controls

Spent two hours clearing out the orange sludge out of the master cylender with cotton buds and brake cleaner.

nearly there ...

At first I thought I'd be looking for a new unit or replacing the seals. Did a motorworks lookup ; the master cyclender seals come complete with rod and spring for £30. In the end the seals and internals looked fine ...

I couldn't take the plastic reservoir off the casting (yes I did remove the screw at the bottom).

Questions) Whats the best way to restore the black on the control alloy castings. Sand and carefully spray paint?

And here's a pic with all the controls on the DRZ fat bars:

After 10 mins bleeding got pressure up on the front caliper.

So we're already to go at the front end. when oh when will my neighbour finish the back end ... or even start it :-(. I'll catch up with him at the weekend and see where he's up to.

Considering taking the back end /mono off my g/s to give it a try, but suspect the rear wheel will foul on the exhaust Y piece so that's probably not a flyer?

 

[DaveB916]

Don't go damaging that new Y piece ......lolol

Glad it arrived safely.

Dave B

 

[ians]

My paralever frame has a monolever back end and a kiehen Y pipe and everthing clears fine.

 

[Steptoe]

It really needs to be 1 to 2mm thicker - I must have mis-measured so I'll get the next one made that big and probably thicker that originally stated.

yep. It looks like I under measured the thickness required I said 10mm but needs 12mm.

I'd double check the maths below It's always the easy ones that catch you out

Waiting for the machining to be done and started working on the exact point to mount the lower shock mount given that I will use the existing GS top mount point.

First drew picture taking into account all the important measurements on the G/S and GS

Next worked out all the angles and relationships so that I could work out the effect of putting the monolever on the GS

Once I had done this worked out the effect of extending the monolever. Then varied the length of D (distance from pivot to lower shock mount point) to see the effect on suspension height. The table show incrementing by 14 as i think I can get away with multiple pivot mount holes at 14mm between centres.

 

[pete.keys]

My paralever frame has a monolever back end and a kiehen Y pipe and everthing clears fine.

Cool I'll check this at the weekend and see if I can do it.

 

[pete.keys]

No sparc - no wiring diagram aaahhhh

Just sppent 4 hours trying to get a spark out of my bike ...,ahhhhh

Bike turning over - just not sparking

Found a great wiring digram for a g/s

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://bgoodsoil.smugmug.com/photos/487529893_zqxze-XL.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php%3Ft%3D488907&h=758&w=1024&sz=176&tbnid=08pkGQ2EoyEYdM:&tbnh=111&tbnw=150&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dr80gs%2Bwiring%2Bdiagram&zoom=1&q=r80gs+wiring+diagram&usg=__KjXz7Y9nHwNbCF92_XmxG4-jjes=&sa=X&ei=jsy6TLSxGsbKjAfchc3jDg&ved=0CCIQ9QEwAw

Anyone know of anything similar for the R80/R100GS?

I am trying to follow the service manual re rebugging the issue but it doesn't make sense

Got to the bit that says "test voltage supply of control unit. push back protective cap on plug (do not disconnect plug). test voltage a term 4 to 2. When ignition is switched on, voltage should be same as battery voltage" . I don't understand this as terminal 2 is "brown" and goes to earth??

God I hate electrics.

I have checked the neutral light is on.

I am not 100% sure about the clutch lever cutout as to whether this is supposed to be "open" or "closed" - but it doesn't seam to make a difference one way or another.

ahhh frustrating

 

[ChasF]

Got to the bit that says "test voltage supply of control unit. push back protective cap on plug (do not disconnect plug). test voltage a term 4 to 2. When ignition is switched on, voltage should be same as battery voltage" . I don't understand this as terminal 2 is "brown" and goes to earth??

God I hate electrics.

I have checked the neutral light is on.

I am not 100% sure about the clutch lever cutout as to whether this is supposed to be "open" or "closed" - but it doesn't seam to make a difference one way or another.

ahhh frustrating

I would assume that terminal 2 is the battery negative which is earthed and 4 is the positive. It suggest you measure directly on the terminals in case there is a bad earth somewhere.

 

[Mike the Bike]

Anyone know of anything similar for the R80/R100GS?

This link is very useful. Has the wiring as well as rest of bike

http://www.xmission.com/~wendell/GS/GSParts.html

 

[pete.keys]

I would assume that terminal 2 is the battery negative which is earthed and 4 is the positive. It suggest you measure directly on the terminals in case there is a bad earth somewhere.

DUUH... I must have been having a blonde moment!! Thanks ChasF - I just didn't read it like that but now its really obvious.

I'll get back to it this evening!!

 

[pete.keys]

This link is very useful. Has the wiring as well as rest of bike

http://www.xmission.com/~wendell/GS/GSParts.html

Excellent - a wiring diagram in colour - surfed for ages to find one but couldn't. Thanks!!

 

[Steptoe]

Just sppent 4 hours trying to get a spark out of my bike ...,ahhhhh

Bike turning over - just not sparking

I am not 100% sure about the clutch lever cutout as to whether this is supposed to be "open" or "closed" - but it doesn't seam to make a difference one way or another.

:

If the engine turns over it's nothing to do with clutch lever cut out. The clutch lever cut out has nothing to do with the plug not sparking

 

[pete.keys]

If the engine turns over it's nothing to do with clutch lever cut out. The clutch lever cut out has nothing to do with the plug not sparking

OK - thanks - thats clear from the wiring diagram now. I need to start taking my glasses out to the workshop with me when I'm working on my bike - sign of the times

 

[pete.keys]

My paralever frame has a monolever back end and a kiehen Y pipe and everthing clears fine.

Yep - put the Y piece and exhaust on at the weekend and there's no problem.

Interesting that you run this config. Are you using the standard shock and standard paralevel upper shock mounting point? If so that would mean that the mono is at a much more extreme angle than normal - ever had any problems with this?

Now if i can get my bike started (see thread) I'll transfer the standard monolever across from my g/s

cheers

-Pete

 

[ChasF]

I found this on another forum a while back - looks useful:


For all the tests turn ignition on a few seconds before you do the test.

Various testpoints:
•Check kill-switch
•Green wire on coil: 12V
•Green/Blue wire (4/15) on ignition-module: 12V
•Brown wire (2/31) on ignition module: 0V

Coil:
•Remove the black wire
•Connect a lead to where the black wire was and short this to ground.
•There should be a spark every time, if not the coil is faulty

Ignition-module:
•Find the three-pin connector located underneath the starter cover (Brown, Blue Green/Yellow)
•Disconnect the plug
•Short the brown wire in the female plug to earth
•There should be a spark every time, if not the module is faulty
•Connect the plug.

Hallsensor:
•Put a voltmeter between 12V and the brown wire in the previous mentioned three-pin connector (the plug has to be connected).
•Rotate the engine and see that you get a reading in the area 6-12V every time the swingwheel passes the S-mark

 

[ians]

Yep - put the Y piece and exhaust on at the weekend and there's no problem.

Interesting that you run this config. Are you using the standard shock and standard paralevel upper shock mounting point? If so that would mean that the mono is at a much more extreme angle than normal - ever had any problems with this?

Now if i can get my bike started (see thread) I'll transfer the standard monolever across from my g/s

cheers

-Pete

Pete, this is what I did.

I used a normal monolever swingarm from an RT that has no shock mounting bracket (it's on the bevelbox) for these.
Got an R80ST shock as it's slightly shorter, bolted it up to the standard top bracket on the paralever frame, then with the bike on the centre stand found the position for the bottom bracket that would give a suitable ride height for me. I'm a bit ahem... short. Tack welded the bottom bracket on the swingarm, then removed the shock again. Calculated the length of the shock on full compression and drilled a piece of flat stock steel with the holes at this distance, bolted that up to check that the tyre cleared everything on full compression.
Everything was fine so full weld, shape the brackets nicely and the jobs a good 'un.
You may want a higher ride height though. This is best achieved with a swingarm extension. But you already know that.
I will take a picture if you like and post it tomorrow.

 

[ians]

I hope these pictures work.
I have included one of the brake cable arrangement.
For reference the shock is 350mm eye centre to eye centre and the clearance of the tyre to mudgaurd is 220mm unloaded.

You may have noticed that I'm not much of a polisher.

No that didn't work. I hate computors.

You were pretty close Ian, just a few too many IMG codes but I have fixed them for you.
Aidan

 

[ians]

Thank you Aidan.