R.I.D Problems

[motogp]

Hi Guys and Girls

I was out on the beemer at the weekend, everything was fine untill my R.I.D went a bit strange, the gear indicator went potty, it only shows 3rd and 4th gears the rest of the time it shows zero. the neutral indicator is working fine, the rest of the R.I.D is fine. its not effecting the running of the bike, its just bloody annoying.

any clues?


motogp

 

[Tsiklonaut]

Has the unit been wet (riding in dense rain, washed your bike etc) recently?

 

[Neil W]

The RID is fine its the gear position indicator switch on the back of the gearbox, its either full of water or cream crakered, mines had three of the things in the last six years

 

[motogp]

have washed it many times before and this hs never happened, are the plugs on the back of the box easy to do or is it off to BWM to get sorted?

 

[Neil W]

BMW and Haynes say its a paralever out job, but if your bike has Y piece fitted you have got access to sort it. If not the quickest way is to remove the cat and exhaust.

 

[motogp]

Had a look last night, i have a Y pipe so seems easy enough, will give it a go thanks for all your help

MotoGP

 

[Dragon Master]

Had a look last night, i have a Y pipe so seems easy enough, will give it a go thanks for all your help

MotoGP

Hi Moto,

Just had a look at the switch on mine (I've got it off at the moment), and there are two brown wires hard wired in to the neutral switch. If you trace those back to where they plug in, just on the left below (not under) the seat if I remember right, you should be able to do a continuity test from there.

It is a swinging arm off job to change the switch, but it's not difficult, just need to make sure you have the gear to set the tapered roller bearings when you put it back together. And a heat gun might be useful to get them apart in the first place.

Hope I catch you with this before you start trying to poke about behind the swing arm...

Dave.

 

[Neil W]

Trust me you DO NOT need to remove the paralever arm but it is a tight squeeze

 

[Steptoe]

It is a swinging arm off job to change the switch, but it's not difficult, just need to make sure you have the gear to set the tapered roller bearings when you put it back together. And a heat gun might be useful to get them apart in the first place.

Hope I catch you with this before you start trying to poke about behind the swing arm...

Dave.

He has an 1150 which has just a "squeeze" clip holding the switch in place. Easily do-able with everything in place and a pair of long nose pliars.

But if he's changing the switch the real "pain in the butt" part is where the other end of the switch is located and the threading of the switch wiring = front of the bike L/H side next to the alternator.

 

[Dragon Master]

He has an 1150 which has just a "squeeze" clip holding the switch in place. Easily do-able with everything in place and a pair of long nose pliars.

Ah... and just why did I assume he has an 1100? Guess I should keep me gob shut after doing a night shift...

Dave.

 

[tyclyd]

Easier way to get at the switch

Had to replace my switch after a soaking and 4 week wait to see if it dried out - read on the forum that the easier way to get at the circlip was to use a strong cable tie, hold it in position then pull to tighten - harder than it sounds but holds the clip together allowing for easier removal. Got my spare from Shirlocks for £28 and refitting was relative easy. When you drop the exhaust watch out for the Lamba sensor wire - its a little short...