r100 project question.

[wreck diver]

Hi,I have just bought a R100 RS 1980 that has been stood for many years.
Thankfully in a dry workshop.
I have now renewed the fuel ines and fitted filters,so hoping to try to run it up later.It spins over and a good spark too.
The front brakes are U/S, poss seals in master cylinder,and poss calipers stuck.
Is it much grief and advantage to change to a handlebar mounted master cylinder? And a step further is it poss to fit the later forks with brembo brakes,or am i best to stick with ATE calipers and under tank master cylinder.
Is it possible to repair the under tank master cylinder?
Any advise would be apreciated. Thanks.

 

[FERRET]

Get some pictures up then Rick

 

[Eng]

Brakes

The front brakes are U/S, poss seals in master cylinder,and poss calipers stuck.
Is it much grief and advantage to change to a handlebar mounted master cylinder? And a step further is it poss to fit the later forks with brembo brakes,or am i best to stick with ATE calipers and under tank master cylinder.
Is it possible to repair the under tank master cylinder?
Any advise would be apreciated. Thanks.[/QUOTE]

I have done this on my 90S, to save all the corrosive fluid making a mess under the tank and improve the brakes generally.
If you speak to a guy called "Nord" at Motorworks, he will tell you exactly what parts you need. The caliper seals may need renewing and new pads and your off! If you spend time setting up the ATE calipers, they actually perform relatively well.

 

[wreck diver]

pic,s

as requested.
This it it as i picked it up.First time it had seen the light of day for 9 years.
The guy had owned the bike for 25 years.

 

[wreck diver]

And afted a good scrub up.

 

[wreck diver]

I have renewed the fuel lines and fitted fuel filters,poured some derv into the bores,changed engine oil,and in cloud of smoke 2nd prod of the button she fired up and ran.

 

[FERRET]

That looks nice and a bit different with that colour scheme, look forward to seeing it in the flesh,

 

[wreck diver]

You are always welcome to drop in for a coffee if you are about.

 

[peepingtom]

love it ! what a great bike . obervsley been well loved at some point in its life.

what are you planning to do with it?

have fun

 

[wreck diver]

love it ! what a great bike . obervsley been well loved at some point in its life.

what are you planning to do with it?

have fun

Good question,i dont know what its future is yet.Various ideas keep coming and going.
I would like to have found out more about its history. The repaint was done a long time ago and it might not be to everyones taste,it was done very well at the time. The engine has been out to paint the frame,but no clue as to weather it had been rebuilt.
It has has a new clutch i understand. Its fitted with an oil cooler,i thought they were only standard on the later ones. Lots of stainless bolts,Koni dial a rides.
Like to try to get it running better and decide then.Needs float bowl gaskets asap,fuel pissing out of RHS.

 

[(RIP) Proff]

I've seen a R100rs like that before...
Many, many years ago @ Silverstone pits iirc, think it's a Motor racing teams colours..

FFS I've got to go through my archives now


mutter mutter



Might have been a Dream Machine paint job { Derby }

Wonder if they have a pic in their archives..

 

[fayeslane]

Is it much grief and advantage to change to a handlebar mounted master cylinder? Is it possible to repair the under tank master cylinder?
Any advise would be apreciated. Thanks.

Motobins. Part number: 61171. Price 255 quid.

 

[wreck diver]

Hi thanks,yes i have just been on thier site. Hope a repair kit may do the job,its not seized just no pressure.

 

[Beemerboff]

I have done the M/C conversion, a long time ago when it didn't cost as much.

For brake power, it is actually a step backwards, as you loose the leverage at the M/C , and even with a 12 mm handlebar M/C you don't replace it.

I needed different cables, splitter top for the perch, etc , too, so the 255 quid might not be the end of it.

 

[Rob Farmer]

That paint scheme is so bad it's good.

The brake problem may simply be the ATE forks needing adjustment.

The master cylinder conversion is easy to do but not cheap. Motobins sell a complete new kit for around £250. It makes a world of difference to the ATE brakes. I prefer the ATE forks and brakes when they have the master cylinder conversion. You will need the later bump pad to fit around the master cylinder.

This is the conversion on my old RS. You need the small splitter to replace the under tank master cylinder, The top hose and a master cylinder and lever, the bar bump pad.

 

[MikeP]

And a step further is it poss to fit the later forks with brembo brakes,or am i best to stick with ATE calipers and under tank master cylinder.
Is it possible to repair the under tank master cylinder?
Any advise would be apreciated. Thanks.

IMO, it depends upon what use the bike will be put to because the ATE brakes and under-tank master-cylinder work well enough when sorted but are a pain to deal with when something needs doing. The ATE callipers need to be correctly set-up (pad alignment wise) every time that the front wheel is removed. It isn't a difficult or time consuming job if the cams are free and in good condition, just more to do than with later callipers.

As long as the bore of the master-cylinder is good, new piston and seals will fix most problems. The fact that there's a short cable acting upon a lever that in turn works the master-cylinder piston means that there's more to sort out than just a lever operating directly onto the piston.

The rubber boot that covers the master-cylinder actuating lever is supposed to keep moisture out but it's not very good at doing its job. The mix of cast master-cylinder, aluminium arm and moisture isn't a happy one. Being out of sight most of the time doesn't help much either.

The combination of levers, cable, hoses and single-piston swinging callipers makes for less feel at the brakes than most of us are used to.

Given the cost to replace, I'd keep them, sort them out and see if I could live with them before swapping to the Brembo alternative.

 

[wreck diver]

Thanks for that.The M/Cyl piston moves very free in the bore,just no lever resistance and pressure to speak of when i opened the caliper nipple.
I guess i need to take the master cyl off and have it apart.
I am pressuming that the calipers are stuck or siezed. What is the best way to try to get the pistons out to replace seals?
As for the colour scheme it was all done at least before 1987. I would like to find out a bit more about the bike.
Probably supplied new by Williams of Cheltenham,3 owners from 1st reg march 81,to may 86. then one owner in Newport for 12 months,then the guy i bought it from in Worcs 87 to 2012.

 

[MikeP]

Thanks for that.The M/Cyl piston moves very free in the bore,just no lever resistance and pressure to speak of when i opened the caliper nipple.

I have to say that bleeding these brakes is the most time consuming and repetitive job I've ever encountered. I found that, owing to the age of the calliper, the bleed nipple threads were allowing air back into the system when the nipple was opened. A little PTFE tape can solve the problem.

There's no real need to remove the master-cylinder to inspect the piston and bore. Remove the boot. Unhook the cable from the forked lever, swing it aside. The end that the forked lever acts upon is a short pin that is not attached, take care that it doesn't fall out. Use a drift to push the piston in a little to free the circlip from internal pressure and remove the circlip.

The piston, spring and spring end-cap:

Make certain that the end-cap doesn't get left behind inside the cylinder bore because the chances are that the spring won't seat properly upon reassembly.

As for the calliper pistons, I put a wooden wedge in the body to prevent the piston popping right out and used an air-line to push them out far enough to inspect them for corrosion.

 

[fayeslane]

I am pressuming that the calipers are stuck or siezed. What is the best way to try to get the pistons out to replace seals?

Use a grease gun to pump grease in through the bleed nipple. Messy but effective.

 

[wreck diver]

,seems the pistons are siezed rather than just stuck.
I have put the air nozzle in and no sign of any movement. Poured penetrating oil round the outside of the piston to soak.overnight. Are they any other ways to get the pistons out or it going to be new calipers needed