R100T

Kenny said:
That rear light is just so wrong :eek:!!! And don't forget a reflector :rob

Set fire to the bike and get the insurance :thumb2

;)
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Reflector for what :confused:

I know it is wrong hence the reason it feels so right :D


How will the insurance money ever give me the same amount of joy for what I will get for it. Besides real men use wood not bikes to make fire :beerjug:
 
So last night around 21:00 go to put the bike in the garage and the 'S' screen I bought a while back looking at me from the corner where I put it :comfort

As I told my wife I will just be 5 minutes thought how hard can it be to fit it on the bike :augie

The brackets holding it onto the top yolk had to be bend in shape and make fit. The holes reemed at the bottom of the fairing to fit over the indicator stalks. All the holes for the screen and instrument surround had to be drilled.

So about 2.5 hours later I got into bed with wifey long gone to dream world :rolleyes:

Took a few pictures lunchtime with my phone which is not great but want to know how does the clock and volt meter suppose to fit and secure onto the instrument cluster? I stopped short of figuring that out last night.

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This morning commuting into London was pretty good with the screen offering some protection, can't say it was much faster though :thumb2

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WoooHooooo the R100T passed MOT today with one advisory - rear tyre on the limit :D

One less thing to worry and it's treated me well the two months I had it so far :beerjug:
 
Spend some time on the beast again over the weekend. Replaced the diode board with a spare and viola the red generator light is going out now properly when revved over 2k rpm :thumb2

Balanced the carbs properly and idling around 1k rpm sweet :D

I do enjoy this bike and just wish the ATE brakes were more sharp :eek
 
Rob, is there a particular master cylinder that works? I have a couple of Honda units on the shelf. Am about to tackle my R75/6 and the front brake is the first port of call. It has twin front disks so I will have to get a splitter and custom made lines I suppose if I do away with the under tank M/C.
 
Motobins do a complete kit but it isn't cheap. I picked up a 2nd hand one for my 100RS and then promptly snapped the clamp while trying out another set of bars. This turned out to be a pain in the arse because the twin pull cable bar clamps are no longer available so I had to buy all the gear to convert to a single pull cable. Cost around £150 in the end so was an expensive mistake.

If you're fitting a Honda one you will need a undertank splitter and top hose.

Motobins kit is £240 + Vat

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After finally getting around the other night to set the points gap and still no difference in the bike struggling to rev past 4500rpm. Ordered the basic o-ring and gasket kit for the carbs this week and managed to get 2 hours yesterday stripping them down. Well bugger me all the o-rings and the diaphrams were probably the original stuff from 1978 :eek:

There were more holes in the diaphrams than actual rubber :blast I am really surprised the bike still ran and idled near normal :eek

Cleaned everything out and replaced the lot on both carbs. Had a quick run this afternoon and balanced it all up and sweet as ever :beerjug: Now it pulls like a freight train....a slow one but it pulls much better :D

Will check tomorrow morning if the starting issue is resolved as the chokes were also treated to a good cleaning + gasket + o-ring. Amazing the bike did 6k miles since September and just keep chugging on once it starts. Replaced the battery as well which I was jump starting since start December :hide

I find myself in a weird relationship with this bike, it's a heap of rust but it just keeps on going :rob
 
maverick said:
There were more holes in the diaphrams than actual rubber :blast I am really surprised the bike still ran and idled near normal :eek
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The diaphragms only come into effect as the air velocity increases through the carb and lifts the slides. I may be corrected but I think the slides only start to lift at a bout half throttle opening... so low down the bike would run fine.

Glad you've found your problem ... once back together you can start enjoying her again!!
 
judge said:
A bit like Gringo except the bit about it just keeps going :D
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Indeed it does have similar qualities in some respects with the exception of it actually moving most of the time :D

pete.keys said:
Glad you've found your problem ... once back together you can start enjoying her again!!
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Pete all back together yesterday afternoon and running sweet. This morning it fired up much quicker although it won't run on choke but minor problem compared to what it was like. It idles nice and smooth on 1200 rpm once hot. Will stick in the new points and condenser this week and might have to borrow a timing light from someone as I think it is slightly out and probably not been checked for years.

Rode into work 26 miles and it is a different bike. I can actually overtake stuff now :eek: :D Think I managed to get to a TON this morning :augie Just had to check and was very late for work :beerjug:
 
pete.keys said:
The diaphragms only come into effect as the air velocity increases through the carb and lifts the slides. I may be corrected but I think the slides only start to lift at a bout half throttle opening... so low down the bike would run fine.
Click to expand...

That was my experience when I had one tear, the bike started and ran fine up to 60Mph but would not rev after that.

Glad you're ironing out the faults Maverick :thumb2
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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