Hi people, hoping for help, engine sputtered and died, tried to restart but noticed the fuel pump did not prime, fuse ok but on ignition the fuel pump relay clicks, replaced fuse, relay, pump and filter but still no joy just the click from the relay, hoping some experts out there can help.
R1150RS fuel problem.
- Thread starter PGS
- Start date
Fuel pump ?
Side stand switch ?
Side stand switch ?
Fuel pump replaced and would the side stand switch stop the pump priming ?
4way connecter on the rhs of the tank....contacts corrode.
start at the beginning and work forwards ......using your brain ! ( and a wiring diagram )
check , don't guess.
start at the beginning and work forwards ......using your brain ! ( and a wiring diagram )
check , don't guess.
Switch checked and engine crank ok
New pump and filter, side stand fine and engine cranks ok
Cranks ok
4way connecter cleaned, brain working but electrics have never been a hobby or an interest
I’m guessing that the fuel pump has never run since you replaced it.
If the fuel pump relay clicks, then it’s a sign that it is operating. Which would mean the Motronic is controlling it correctly.
Try putting 12volts directly to the fuel pump at the tank connector and check that the pump runs.
If it does then try starting the bike.
If it doesn’t then either the pump is faulty or the tank wiring harness.
Ian
If the fuel pump relay clicks, then it’s a sign that it is operating. Which would mean the Motronic is controlling it correctly.
Try putting 12volts directly to the fuel pump at the tank connector and check that the pump runs.
If it does then try starting the bike.
If it doesn’t then either the pump is faulty or the tank wiring harness.
Ian
Hi yes correct, going to try the last piece of advice this afternoon, keep watching
Hi Ian, put 12volts direct to the pump block connecter (which I cleaned) and the pump ran nicely I then tried to start the engine but with no success, after trying to start I heard clicking from the relay housing for about 15 seconds
OK,
Normally when a relay is operated it clicks. You can feel this if you put your finger on the relay. But, it only clicks once on change of state. It sounds as though your fuel pump relay is chattering when you apply power. Which makes me think the Motronic for some reason is pulsing the control to the relay.
During normal start operation when the ignition is first operated, the motronic sends a signal to the fuel pump relay for a few seconds to pressurise the fuel rail. The Motronic then waits for the signal from the HES to tell it the engine is rotating, when it receives that signal it reapplies control to the fuel pump relay and switch the pump back on. The engine should then continue to run.
I’m thinking the HES could be faulty sending a rouge signal to the Motronic. Which is then sending a spurious signal to the fuel pump relay.
There are a few things you could try, but I’m sceptical you will find anything.
Remove the fuel pump relay and make sure the 4 connectors on the fuse box housing are locked in place. Gently pressure should establish this. If the locking tab securing them is broken or the contact is not latched then as you push the relay home it will not engage correctly with the contacts.
Try removing Fuse 5 for a short while. This will allow the Motronic to reset.
Locate the HES connector and disconnect it. See if the fuel pump relay stops chattering when you go through the start sequence.
Ian
Normally when a relay is operated it clicks. You can feel this if you put your finger on the relay. But, it only clicks once on change of state. It sounds as though your fuel pump relay is chattering when you apply power. Which makes me think the Motronic for some reason is pulsing the control to the relay.
During normal start operation when the ignition is first operated, the motronic sends a signal to the fuel pump relay for a few seconds to pressurise the fuel rail. The Motronic then waits for the signal from the HES to tell it the engine is rotating, when it receives that signal it reapplies control to the fuel pump relay and switch the pump back on. The engine should then continue to run.
I’m thinking the HES could be faulty sending a rouge signal to the Motronic. Which is then sending a spurious signal to the fuel pump relay.
There are a few things you could try, but I’m sceptical you will find anything.
Remove the fuel pump relay and make sure the 4 connectors on the fuse box housing are locked in place. Gently pressure should establish this. If the locking tab securing them is broken or the contact is not latched then as you push the relay home it will not engage correctly with the contacts.
Try removing Fuse 5 for a short while. This will allow the Motronic to reset.
Locate the HES connector and disconnect it. See if the fuel pump relay stops chattering when you go through the start sequence.
Ian
Thanks Ian, I have followed your instructions but find I am still in the same position, I checked and cleaned all contacts on the HES and could see no broken connections or wiring, I found what was chattering it wasn’t the relay but was coming from the unit sat on the air filter box lid which I can find no reference to in my Haynes manual, your help and advice is greatly appreciated.
Peter
That sounds as if you have some sort of aftermarket immobiliser fitted, which could be the source of your problem.
If so, then it’s going to be difficult to diagnose whether the fault lies with the bike or something else (immobiliser).
If it is an immobiliser, then they might have tapped into the fuel pump circuit to prevent the bike from running.
Try removing the fuel pump relay and shorting the two contacts together as in the picture. This will provide power directly to the fuel pump and the injectors. Provided no other circuit is affected, the bike may run.
It’s worth a try at least.
Ian
If so, then it’s going to be difficult to diagnose whether the fault lies with the bike or something else (immobiliser).
If it is an immobiliser, then they might have tapped into the fuel pump circuit to prevent the bike from running.
Try removing the fuel pump relay and shorting the two contacts together as in the picture. This will provide power directly to the fuel pump and the injectors. Provided no other circuit is affected, the bike may run.
It’s worth a try at least.
Ian
If jumping the contacts across the fuel pump relay, does not get the fuel pump to run, then most likely the Green/White wire, which you can follow from the Haynes manual ( fuel pump relay to fuel pump and injectors) has been cut somewhere to enable the immobiliser circuit relay to prevent the bike from running.
If so then you will need to trace the wiring from the box to where it connects into the bikes wiring loom. Find the two ends of the Green/White wire and remove them from the immobiliser and reconnect them together.
Ian
If so then you will need to trace the wiring from the box to where it connects into the bikes wiring loom. Find the two ends of the Green/White wire and remove them from the immobiliser and reconnect them together.
Ian
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