R1200GSA 2009 FInal drive Noise..??

This guy had exactly the same problem by the sound of it http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWDKjaywa4Y
try contacting him to findout the solution to the problem.

Shit, I sincerely hope not, cos the resolution was put on the youtube clip by the original poster.

"Resolution: Final drive replaced. Bearing and pinion gear toast. The dealership cut me a deal on the part since I had just bought the bike a few weeks earlier. Overall, went about as well as I could have hoped... So, for future reference - this is a bad sound!"

Good luck....

Rob
 
Shit, I sincerely hope not, cos the resolution was put on the youtube clip by the original poster.

"Resolution: Final drive replaced. Bearing and pinion gear toast. The dealership cut me a deal on the part since I had just bought the bike a few weeks earlier. Overall, went about as well as I could have hoped... So, for future reference - this is a bad sound!"

Good luck....

Rob

Hmm. did not notice the resolution comment. But have to say sounds more or less the same a the OP's problem:(
edit.. exactly the same just reveiwed both vids sounds like a major problem to me!
 
If the oil is contaminated, it may well need a new final drive.

Someone recently said that he has a late model final drive available as he bought the wrong one for his bike. Check out the adverts. It wont be cheap to send to South America but may be less bad than new parts from BMW.

Dave
 
Sounds very like it

I was trying to gauge what could be making that noise / speed ratio and sadly the speed sensor was first idea but as the OP said it made no difference

So the pinion gear was up next! That's why I suggested the pinion check for movement, oil check for debris and maybe splitting it for visual confirmation

Asked before, but what age of bike is yours? can you get UPS or any such carrier way down there because there are quite a few with Final drives available to purchase ready to roll in this forum, One off one on and away you go

Good Luck with it I don;t know If I'd try nursing it X hundred miles or not to get back to more civilized places? a bit of string question methinks :thumb
 
Hi, mine may be the FD you are referring to......bought for my 07 registered bike only to find it was built pre Aug 06....

My FD will fit bikes built between Aug 06 and Aug 08 - not sure that it will work for the OP.....sorry.

I'm sure the problem will be 'fixable'......and am deeply jealous of the OP having covered such mileage on a journey that I can only dream about. The best of British to you!!:thumb2

Cheers

Pete
 
Revision to my earlier post, I now think the steel crown wheel hub spindle is turning within the inner race of a seized main bearing (also steel) otherwise as stated, the oil would be contaminated with alloy particles if it were the outer race fretting within the alloy casting. It would be steel on steel with a film of oil so it turns without seizing, yet the tight transition fit between components allows it to grip then slip making the fretting sound.
 
So what you are saying is it needs stripped and checked? End Off :thumb :thumb :thumb

particles in oil more likely the input shaft

clean oil more likely main bearing

N'est Pas

Revision to my earlier post, I now think the steel crown wheel hub spindle is turning within the inner race of a seized main bearing (also steel) otherwise as stated, the oil would be contaminated with alloy particles if it were the outer race fretting within the alloy casting. It would be steel on steel with a film of oil so it turns without seizing, yet the tight transition fit between components allows it to grip then slip making the fretting sound.
 
Its noisy so clean oil is unlikely. If a bearing has spun in it's housing the FD is effectively scrap, though a (very) good machine shop might be able to sleeve the area to the correct size. Shipping out a good overhauled used unit is likely to be less cost and more likely to be reliable.
 
hey guys

thanks for all the input..:beerjug:

the only thing i can do is try to take it to the next workable but still remote area(Punta arenas, Chile)

and i still may have to have or go to Santiago to get parts..

problem is... quite simply put Argentina is fucked... :blast
they have closed the Borders to any importation of parts, mail, almost everything..:eek::eek: i smell imminent country collapse...:blast

so i have to take it to chile(where stuff works) to see what i can do..

will let you know what the out come is.... i am thinking now that it is something to do with the pinion bearings or parts.. i i am very careful i can just feel the vibration coming from near there...
 
MusicDude this is a bit drastic but bearing in mind I have no idea what you have as resources where you are!

If you cannot get Graphite powder anywhere there get at least a dozen soft lead pencils and split them and powder up the leads (HB or less if they have such a thing)

Drop the oil out passing it through a stocking or a tea strainer to get as much of the contaminants out of the solution IF you cannot get some sort of replacement oil?

Mix the lead with your sieved gear oil or better still 200ccs of a replacement oil preferably GL5 specification but fresh is better if possible even straight EP90 or truck oil EP140/90 would be good and get it back in the FD maybe even check chandlers for Marine gearbox oil for the fishing boat gearboxes if they have big fleets??

Anyway If there is a lot of crap in the oil that you drain????? Before you put fresh in with the graphite powder Get a litre of petrol and flush out your FD in stages to wash out as much of as possible of the contaminants! add a couple of hundred cc's and spin it by hand and empty it checking for debris I guess you'll have to watch for locals smoking by you as the gringo messes with his bike!!!! :eek: Maybe you'd be better flushing with diesel

If you can get as much of the abrasive contaminants out, then you have a better chance of making it without having to hitch a truck ride! If you leave them in it'll be like running a cement mixer in there and will chew itself up IF there are any contaminants??

Graphite is probably the best thing you can add as it will beat itself into pits and ribs and provide a more lubricative surface "Maybe" it'll last the trip to a workable place

Good Luck !
 
Thanks DrFarkoff

i will try that tomorrow morning... otherwise.. i still have importation for 60days in Argey

i was going to leave the bike with the Hotel owner who is also a rider(super Tenere's 750 & 1200).. but just remove the FD and take that with me on a... can believe i am saying this...BUS.. Dark days..

today i did manage to find some 75W90 API GL5 oil so i can drain and have a look..

Graphite powder.. prob not going to find here... but i hope for pencils..

i will try with Gasoline/Petrol.. to flush system first.. sounds like a plan.
 
Steal the Hotel owners Tenere LOL

I was serious about watchin out for the locals smokin around you if you are using petrol !!!

I was in the Middle east and we were on an onshore refinery site and the Buggers still smoked!! My Driver used to wash his motor with petrol while his mate stood snogging away on a ciggie not far enough away for my peace of mind! :eek: :eek: :eek:

Ride safe and get us a few pics of the crap that comes out of any?? :beerjug:



Thanks DrFarkoff

i will try that tomorrow morning... otherwise.. i still have importation for 60days in Argey

i was going to leave the bike with the Hotel owner who is also a rider(super Tenere's 750 & 1200).. but just remove the FD and take that with me on a... can believe i am saying this...BUS.. Dark days..

today i did manage to find some 75W90 API GL5 oil so i can drain and have a look..

Graphite powder.. prob not going to find here... but i hope for pencils..

i will try with Gasoline/Petrol.. to flush system first.. sounds like a plan.
 
If you could get some driveshaft grease with Molybdenum Disulphide in it (dark grey) it would also help to add a splodge (technical term) with the fresh oil when refilling, assuming you can't find any pencils to hand. Molybdenum is filthy stuff to handle but an excellent dry film lubricant with good shear resisting properties, so might help your FD to survive a little longer.

Good luck with it.
 
Pencil leads use chalk fillers on harder grades so HB might be risky. Get the very softest you can - B or even 3B from artist shops. Real charcoal is also carbon.
 
Hey Guys

I drained the Oil out today here are the photo's..

i could not really see any particles or metal shavings come out.. only one tiny piece..(first photo).. but maybe thats normal..???

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cantweallridealong/8349541014/" title="IMG_7173 2 by cantweallridealong, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8232/8349541014_fc2d3cbe59_c.jpg" width="800" height="434" alt="IMG_7173 2"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cantweallridealong/8348466867/" title="IMG_7186 by cantweallridealong, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8372/8348466867_50f72ce8bc_c.jpg" width="800" height="533" alt="IMG_7186"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cantweallridealong/8348469089/" title="IMG_7184 by cantweallridealong, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8510/8348469089_7fab0e7763_c.jpg" width="800" height="533" alt="IMG_7184"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cantweallridealong/8348470403/" title="IMG_7183 by cantweallridealong, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8361/8348470403_d608bba053_c.jpg" width="800" height="533" alt="IMG_7183"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cantweallridealong/8349531052/" title="IMG_7182 by cantweallridealong, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8086/8349531052_f767c50388_c.jpg" width="800" height="533" alt="IMG_7182"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cantweallridealong/8348473593/" title="IMG_7181 by cantweallridealong, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8335/8348473593_784af13e5e_c.jpg" width="800" height="533" alt="IMG_7181"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cantweallridealong/8348475031/" title="IMG_7180 by cantweallridealong, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8088/8348475031_42587230bd_c.jpg" width="800" height="533" alt="IMG_7180"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cantweallridealong/8348477961/" title="IMG_7178 by cantweallridealong, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8510/8348477961_9f433486f0_c.jpg" width="800" height="533" alt="IMG_7178"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cantweallridealong/8348482401/" title="IMG_7172 by cantweallridealong, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8049/8348482401_83088afd6c_c.jpg" width="800" height="533" alt="IMG_7172"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cantweallridealong/8348483263/" title="IMG_7171 by cantweallridealong, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8495/8348483263_f02be8e551_c.jpg" width="800" height="533" alt="IMG_7171"></a>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/cantweallridealong/8348486335/" title="IMG_7155 by cantweallridealong, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8467/8348486335_39b693eeb7_c.jpg" width="800" height="533" alt="IMG_7155"></a>

i seams too all look ok.. :thumb2
 
The noise does sound like something stick-slipping as suggested in post#4. But instead of slipping in the alloy case, maybe the main bearing had seized but is slipping on the shaft. This might explain why there is very little debris in the oil.

Another thought - Does anyone know if the crown wheel bonded to the shaft as is done on many car gearboxes?

Ignore this idea if the bike cannot be moved in gear with engine off & clutch out - as normal.
 
The noise does sound like something stick-slipping as suggested in post#4. But instead of slipping in the alloy case, maybe the main bearing had seized but is slipping on the shaft. This might explain why there is very little debris in the oil.

Another thought - Does anyone know if the crown wheel bonded to the shaft as is done on many car gearboxes?

Ignore this idea if the bike cannot be moved in gear with engine off & clutch out - as normal.

Covered that one in post 27.

The crown wheel is a part of the rear axle, all made from one single piece so not able to separate.

Not an easy fix at the roadside, needs a workshop.
 
Presumably it is possible to unbolt the rear face of the final drive crownwheel housing and remove the crownwheel, backplate and shims to allow inspection of the FD internals (main bearing) without the need to remove the FD casting itself from the swing arm? (As suggested by Dr Farkoff in post 18).This should be possible with fairly basic tools and would allow an inspection of the main bearing for seizure.

I haven't checked the spares fiche to see the sealing arrangement for putting it back together, but being able to at least inspect the internals is the idea. If all else fails maybe builders silicone sealant or similar to use in rebuilding ?? Not sure what you have to hand but I'm assuming things are not readily available and trying to think outside the box a bit.
 


Back
Top Bottom