rear shock bottom bolt removal

jonesai

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I am fitting - or should I say trying to fit a s/s clutch hose to my 1999 1150GS. According to the forum this should be possible by removing the rear shock and the clutch slave cylinder, disconnecting the clutch hose allen bolt and pulling the new hose through having cable-tied old and new hoses together.
Before I even get that far the lower allen bolt on the rear shock won't budge. :thedummy . I have removed the shock top bolt and tried a long handled allen key with plenty WD40. Can't get to the bottom allen bolt with a ratchet spanner and allen socket as not enough clearance.
Looks like the silencer will have to come off and then I can attack it with a impact wrench. Should it be necessary to remove the silencer? - looks a sod of a job as everything is rusted solid. Any (sensible) suggestions welcomed.:)
 
Loads and loads of boiling hot water OR a heat gun but watch what yer doin or ya can cook the paint a bit

Heat the end of the Allen Key, if you're usin the heat gun or loads and loads of boiling water in a constant trickle over where the threads for the Allen key are in the swingarm, to heat the arm and loctite up.

it's probably got loctite type stuff on it and if ya force it It will eat all the threads in yer swingarm!!!
 
Loads and loads of boiling hot water OR a heat gun but watch what yer doin or ya can cook the paint a bit

Heat the end of the Allen Key, if you're usin the heat gun or loads and loads of boiling water in a constant trickle over where the threads for the Allen key are in the swingarm, to heat the arm and loctite up.

it's probably got loctite type stuff on it and if ya force it It will eat all the threads in yer swingarm!!!

mine did'nt have loctite on it, but was tight, but i used a
long allen key and a ring spanner on the end, to increase the torque, you won't het enough purchase on a allen key by itself :nenau
 
Remove the silencer, it gives better access.

I have had no problem removing the silencer from my own bike to get at the bottom shock bolt, or on an 1100 that looked as though it had never been disturbed.

Slow gentle heat from a hot-air gun is a good idea on ali of the shock bottom bolt mount. The ali will heat-up and expand quicker than the steel bolt.

For the silencer clamp, try soaking it in de-icer (it's as good as plus-gas and a damn sight cheaper). WD-40 isn't much cop, it's meant to displace water (WD = Water Displacer) and won't penetrate the thread the way the alcohol in the de-icer will.
 
Long Alan key is the answer mate .......

Bit of heat always helps if you can ........... ;)
 
Thanks for the suggestions gents. I will try the heat route first. Tried to remove the silencer and collector box together to avoid going near rusty nuts and bolts but have now nicely rounded the end of the allen bolt connecting the collector box to the frame which is also solid - looks like heat and de-icer required here also. Probably shouldn't be working on the 13th anyway - definitely a pants day!!. :peach:
 
Remove rear wheel & silencer at the junction with collector box.

Then lift the swing arm and prop it up a bit, this raises the bottom bolt of the suspension and you then have enough clearance to put on a ratchet and an allen key socket. Use a ring spanner on the other end of the bolt.

I know as I did it last week!
Cheers
Ray
 
I managed to change the Clutch Slave Cylinder on my 2004 1150 GSA without disturbing the shock.

The only part I moved was the rear shock pre-load adjuster.

I used long 'ball-ended' allen keys, with a small ring spanner on the end for the initial loosening.

It was a fiddle, took a long time and the language was bad but I managed it OK. Clutch has been fine since.

It would be so much easier if the entire air box / fuse box could come out easily.

Remember to lay in a supply of the little alloy crush washers that seal the hydraulic hoses. I had three attempts before I got the hose to lie correctly (it had to be tightened before the slave cylinder was bolted back in).

Good luck.

Bob.
 


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