Slipping clutch - (not B*W)

[nleader]

Here's where I demonstrate my missing mechanical knowledge.

I've just had a slipping clutch replaced on a Kawaski ER5. The mechanics that did the work didn't change the engine oil nor charge me for any oil. When I queried it they said they did what they do for their own bikes - used the sidestand to tilt the bike over so hardly any oil was lost.

I rode the bike away and it feels fine in normal urban use. On a long straight road I tried a 4th gear hard accelerate from 30 mph and the clutch still slips.

Have I been stiffed? Is the original clutch still in the bike?

Or... do new clutches need running in? I've never ridden an old bike with a new clutch before - only brand new ones.

Advice required, please, from those on the list that know.

Ta, Norm

 

[sjwb]

No it should not slip and will require a short period of bedding in.
Yes the oil should have been changed, if only to rid the lubrication system of 'slipping clutch' debris.
Cowboys?

 

[Mouse]

FWIW, I've changed clutches by using that method, you don't have to tilt the bike far to be able to remove one side of the crankcase.

 

[Ste@SSB]

I have changed them that way as well ... but only if have recently changed the oil ... its not the professional way to do it...

New clutch plates should be left overnight in the oil that you are going to fit in the bike ... thats what I always do and I have never had a problem...

Make sure you have some free play at the clutch lever and if thats not the problem try changing the oil ... then take it back and tell them to actually do the work that you have been charged for ... its not unheard of for a garage to just go out and test ride a bike and if it doesn't slip then give it back to the punter as is...

 

[BBC1]

BBC1

Could be the springs, or even a 'notched' clutch basket / drum...... could also be 'warped' or excessively worn clutch plates. Quite often these parts are overlooked and only the friction plates changed. Take it back, tell them to sort it out. You're now armed with all the info you need.

 

[Gas'd Off]

What type of oil is in the bike? I had a similar experience and it was caused by the fully synthetic oil I was using. Once changed to semi synth(as recommended in the manual) it was fine

 

[nleader]

Thanks for the replies so far. The bike shop I took it to has done good work in the past on some of my scooters and 125s (I run a training school) and serviced this ER5 just 300 miles ago - so fairly new oil. I've always had the same mechanic do the work and he inspires confidence. This time, he was sick and someone else did the job.

He's back now and wants to take the bike in to have another look. I'll report back.

Thanks again.

 

[nleader]

The chappie that I normally use and trust took a look at the bike and felt the springs were in need of replacement, too, and changed them. All now OK - no slipping and the lever needs a stronger pull than it used to - similar to the amount of pull needed by the new ER-5s I'm running in at the moment. No charge for the springs as he felt they should have got it right first time round.

Thanks again to all for the feedback last week.

Norm