Speedo not working

[[email protected]]

I have not been told which bike it's from but the chap at the garage did say it would fit a 2004 gs. It did fit, just has a 31/11 ratio, which is different to mine.

Was hoping there is a way to reprogramme the ECU in some way...

 

[botus]

on the bottom of the final drive case is the stamped crown wheel and pinion gear set of that specific unit - look towards the paralever link

the TC's got shorter gearing, the RT gets the longest gearing
there is also the enduro option low first gear on the GSA and that much shorter first gear makes it a much better bike round town, but you need to relearn when to drop to first
what gear are you getting those speeds from ? the 2007 to 2010 GS bevel is 2% higher revs for the same road speed - which is next to nothing. If u go early GS to RT bevel its 7% longer gearing

		crown	pinion	ratio
	RT	34	13	2.615
	R & S	33	12	2.750
2007	GS	31	11	2.818
2010	GS	32	11	2.909

 

[[email protected]]

I got the 31/11

 

[botus]

Was hoping there is a way to reprogramme the ECU in some way...

you can mess with this in the motoscan app - but the tyre sizes he lists are few... for newer bikes with ABS2 if you get things too far out ABS and TC would throw teddies... and for such an early bike who knows what options are in the modules on software that's full of glitches anyway

 

[[email protected]]

you can mess with this in the motoscan app - but the tyre sizes he lists are few... for newer bikes with ABS2 if you get things too far out ABS and TC would throw teddies... and for such an early bike who knows what options are in the modules on software that's full of glitches anyway

Cheers for the advise, unfortunately I am not too tech savvy to do this but I will look for a garage that can maybe do it for me

 

[botus]

unless they have GS911 or the Motoscan app unlikely - dealer tools are tied down to stop the idiots breaking thinks....

 

[knutk]

Hi all, I have a problem with my 2004 R1200gs sensor understating the speed after replacing the final drive. I realised that the original one i have replaced it with, has a different gearing ratio which is causing the issue. Has anyone got an idea on how to resolve this at all?

Gear ratio is not the problem. The ABS 'signal wheel' is located on the crownwheel which rotate the rear wheel. It does not care about the ratio of teeths between the crownwheel and the pinion.

The sensor is a two-wire-sensor, thus, it's based on indiction. The sensor has a built in permanent magnet that is located behind a coil. From the magnet there is a iron bolt that passes through the coil center, and it is the round center section you are observing when looking at the sensor. Allowing an iron toothed wheel (or slotted) will cause fluctations in the magnetic field as the wheel turns. This creates a sinus-curve where the frequency varies according to the rotation speed of the rotating part.

The sensor is a very simple contraption, with no active electronics built into it, and it is possible to check the sensor by using an Ohm-meter. As long as there is no open circuit, the sensor is ok.

As simple as these sensors are, there is a catch. The sensor has to be really close to the ABS ring/toothed wheel. If any changes have been done to the final drive, the chances are that the spacing of the sensor has to be corrected.

Check first if the diagnostics says anything about faulty sensor. If no fault-code is given, the sensor as such is ok, and then it is a matter of checking the spacing for the sensor.

My 2c

 

[botus]

knutk makes a great point

what tyres are you running I ran a road tyre that was a wider rear with lower profile made it's a much better bike - as it shortened the gearing - which is one reason why it was better - but also made it handle and tip in to corners much better than trying to run road tyres using the later LC tyre sizes (which get the gearing right again) - but whist the LC sizes fit from a clearance perspective, the rim isn't really the right width to suit and both ends the profile is more rounded than its supposed to be - its OK but not as sweet at the low profile wider rear and at the time the stock front in trail form.... they originally didn't do a 110 front road tyre dunlop now does but no one stocks it

I have run LC tyre size with road tyres for last 8 years (its far better than the std tractor stuff) - but - I know tip in can be happier with the curvature profile its suppose to have but as I need to fit two for both ends I'm nervous trying stock sizes on road tyres as it might be a disaster and I can't afford to get it wrong