Spline Lubrication

[BillN]

Is there a quicker way - i.e. without separating the transmission from the engine?

Steptoe wil know?

 

[Rugged Path]

Can't see how .


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[BillN]

the last time I did it, I've only ever done it twice ....... I ended up removing the gearbox

 

[John Roberts]

Have a look at Kenny's reply on a thread of mine:

Did mine by pulling it back approx 12mm and put Optimate paste on splines with a toothbrush (I'd recommend using the wife's btw sticky stuff etc )......anyways, if your clutch is THAT stiff and has been for a while....it won't take much longer to completely remove the gearbox ( obviously clutch left untouched so gearbox splines will go back on/in very easily ) and give the splines a proper clean and lube.

The whole thread is at:
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/382438-Stiff-clutch?highlight=clutch+splines

 

[BillN]

Have a look at Kenny's reply on a thread of mine:


The whole thread is at:
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/382438-Stiff-clutch?highlight=clutch+splines

Thanks John, that's really helpful as I should really do three Bikes, especially if I am going to sell them

- I think that Kenny means Optimol - the German stuff ...... it's a grey colour ...... but there is also a white paste ........... it's a long time ago I did the job, but I remember using a special BMW tool, (borrowed it overnight from the BMW Dealer as I knew the guys there), to torque the (new) drive shaft bolts ....... if I remember correctly it did take some time

I have still got a Clymer .. if I can find it!!!

 

[Edward]

You can also use Honda Moly 60 as the lubricant.

 

[solidstate100]

To do it properly you should remove the box. The point is you might well be able to aim some lube at the splines but you are unlikely to be able to clean either the input shaft or disc splines properly. Also its very easy to over lubricate and end up with contamination of the friction surfaces, which you dont want - only minimal amounts of lube are needed - hard to do if you are working you sausage fingers through a 12mm gap!

 

[BillN]

You can also use Honda Moly 60 as the lubricant.

I think that you can, but it is more "runny" than the white paste stuff as is the lubricant recommended by BMW, (they used to number all their lubricants and U think that it is number 10). Anyway I will buy the new drive shaft bolts from BMW so I always check with them.

 

[(RIP) Arkwright]

There are better products to lubricate the splines with, I acquired a 500g tin in 1975, i've just used half of it!

 

[Steptoe]

...... if I remember correctly it did take some time

Half an hour to get a box out.

 

[BillN]

Half an hour to get a box out.

presumably it is quite cheap for you to do the job then, one hours labour?......... coating the lines is a couple of minutes .... so it must be a "while_U_wait" job for you

is that with one hand or two

it took me some time to do the job from start to end

 

[BillN]

Gearbox removal
just reading the manual, Clymer seem to recommend that you remove the engine bolts and "pull the engine forward" for 1981 models onwards

I have only done this twice, (the first time I did it with friend who had done it before), and I did it by removing the swing arm pivot bolts and nuts and then pulled the swing arm and drive shaft backwards, leaving the rear wheel on the Bike ...... I remember because I had to be careful to keep the "gap" the same and also that I had a problem finding a thin walled socket, plus I also marked the pivot bolt to the outer nut so that when I tightened the outer nut, (the one around the pivot bolt), I was sure that the pivot bolt did not turn as they have different torque settings.

Climber recommend the you do all the "gubbins" and of course undo the drive shaft bolts ....... but then remove the engine front cover and engine mounting bolts and move the engine forward ..... with the engine supported by a jack/piece of wood .......... and the gearbox being supported likewise

the basic difference being that you leave the swing arm bolts as they are and move the engine forward rather than undoing the bolts and moving the swing arm and drive shaft backwards

Then there is the "toothbrush" method

would be grateful to receive comments

 

[cookie]

I've always taken the swing arm out.

 

[BillN]

I've always taken the swing arm out.

Hi Cookie

how do you ensure you put it back with the same gaps either side, or indeed "centralising" the swing arm - I measured the gap on the RHS with "feeler gauges" before and then adjusted to keep the same gap when putting all back together

 

[Steptoe]

Hi Cookie

how do you ensure you put it back with the same gaps either side, or indeed "centralising" the swing arm - I measured the gap on the RHS with "feeler gauges" before and then adjusted to keep the same gap when putting all back together

I use an one of those long allen keys that come in sets, find the size before you remove the swingarm bolts by poking it into the gap.

It's doesn't have to be perfect anyway as the european bikes have them offset compared to the Uk bikes due to driving on the other side of the road...

Battery carrier and battery all stay in place, undo the drive shaft bolts, undo the swing arm and move it back and chock it in place ( i use a piece of wood inbetween the rear mudguard and wheel).
Undo the carbs, airbox, and clutch arm, and L/H footrest, undo the gearbox bolts. Pull the gearbox back, turn it anticlockwise by a quarter and slightly up and pull it out from the L/H side.

Jobs a carrot, 30 minutes work - i've done it in 16 minutes years ago just to see how fast i could do it. But bits everywhere ended up taking longer overall as had to put everything back in order.

 

[cookie]

I measure with a vernier calliper between frame and swing arm, and then fiddle with the pivot bolts til it's equal (+/- 0.5mm IIRC).

Done two bikes in the last few weeks and takes about 10 mins.

 

[BillN]

I measure with a vernier calliper between frame and swing arm, and then fiddle with the pivot bolts til it's equal (+/- 0.5mm IIRC).

Done two bikes in the last few weeks and takes about 10 mins.

Thanks Cookie - I think I have a Bike on which "the spring" in the Cassette in the gearbox has broken, (I only have 4th gear) ............. the R100RS Motorsport ......... so that means taking the gearbox out

 

[Deleted account 220427001]

do a job do it right

 

[Sylvester]

I take the whole shebang to bits as I lube the driveshaft splines at the same time and make shire the driveshaft u/j s are good to go. Just need to commit Bro.

 

[Beemerboff]

With a paralever bike the driveshaft splines are probably more important than the clutch splines.
With my wet drive shaft bikes I lube the clutch splines the same way I do my car, using the same product, at the same intervals----------.