Submarine GS

A mate did similar to his 2005 GS whilst fording a local river. Once drained/refilled a few times his bike ran absolutely fine for years, later part-exed for a GSA without any other issues. They must be pretty tough.

If you are happy with it then put some miles on it.
 
it s done

rechecked the tappets and ref, reset the steppers, oiled the throttle cables, its running sweet as now:thumby:

Does seem a little louder from the exhaust though,it runs a straight through standard system with no cat and pipes in silencer,
I think it has dislodged a lot of the carbon that was built up on the pistons dont know if that would have an effect.

I guess time will tell now if theres any lasting damage, it must have shortened the life of some componants.

Here,s the oil as it is at the moment (fully synth). 50mile old on the left,new on the right, it looks a lot darker in the pics than it actually is.
oil pic 1.JPGoil pic 2.JPG
 
I was wrong ,

Took it out for the day today,
Its not running right,theres a flat spot at around 4.5k and it wont rev "clean" above that if you get my meaning,
its also using more fuel about a third more Id say,
judgeing by the way its snap crackle and popping on the overun theres unburnt fuel in the exhuast.

Plugs look fine,
Lambada sensors look like this, someone says they are supposed to be black:nenau the exhaust was full of water when i started it so they were contaminated.
lamdas.jpg
Any ideas:nenau
 
Took it out for the day today,
Its not running right,theres a flat spot at around 4.5k and it wont rev "clean" above that if you get my meaning,
its also using more fuel about a third more Id say,
judgeing by the way its snap crackle and popping on the overun theres unburnt fuel in the exhuast.

Plugs look fine,
Lambada sensors look like this, someone says they are supposed to be black:nenau the exhaust was full of water when i started it so they were contaminated.
View attachment 266249
Any ideas:nenau

Water got in the oil, unless you were running without an oil cap it got in through the intake. Therefore there could be damage caused by locking. Compression test followed by checking piston height in the bores. Anything else is a waste of time. Once you have established that compressions are OK and both pistons reach the correct TDC then you can flush out the oil etc.

But this has been said before so I'm not sure why you still ask for advice!

John
 
Because I have checked the compressions and they are the same, if the piston heights were different they would be different surely.but to fuck off the haters I will measure the strokes with a clock.
Water got in the oil, unless you were running without an oil cap it got in through the intake. Therefore there could be damage caused by locking. Compression test followed by checking piston height in the bores. Anything else is a waste of time. Once you have established that compressions are OK and both pistons reach the correct TDC then you can flush out the oil etc.

But this has been said before so I'm not sure why you still ask for advice!

John
 
If the lambdas aren't right it will run like shit. They provide adaptive values to the fuel/ignition maps. If they have been swamped by water I would expect them to be very faulty, you can check the Lambda trace with a GS911 if you have one or can borrow one.

Expensive from BMW, cheaper to buy NTK items from eBay resellers (same item, different colour box, half the price).

For example:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NGK-Lambd...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3eff57afdb
 
I got caught by BMW lambda prices when one of mine got sooted to death.

Compression test is not accurate enough to pick up a mm or less of wrong deck height. But an even slightly bent conrod WILL damage the crank journal. That's if the rod doesn't snap before the oil pressure collapses.

BTW those saying the engine needs to be properly mechanically checked are not haters. But you asked for help so please yourself if you want to gamble.
 
The rough running could also be a failed coil.


The bike will start with just 1 coil connected, so it is an easy check.
 
Cured the fluffy firing by finding the plug to the left hand lower coil was not fully home,run like a train for a while but a noise from the right cylinder developed when fully warm,(piston slap:nenau)

so I rechecked the compressions with a better quality tester, the original one I used came out of the ark,
left is 175 psi, right is 145 psi. it will hold these pressures for hours
Its also used a fair bit of oil id say half a litre in 150 miles,

Looking like a bent con rod as predicted by a few.:thumb
 
Now you know you shouldve brought one of these instead :aidan
 

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:beerjug:
 
marine boy.

ah but he had the touratech snorkel kit fitted:D

I got an engine for £250, supposedly 20k miler,bit of a gamble, its all there with the clutch, although a bit corroded on the crankcases.
He says its an 05, cant find an engine number on it just a 05 with xt underneath it and a 24, this is on the left side just behind the barrel.

The heads and barrels are factory black with a sliver crankcase, I think its an adventure engine.:nenau
engine 1.jpgengine_2.JPGengine_3.jpg
 
In 2005 the alternators would have been different between the stock model and the adventure variant (which had a larger wattage capacity). A check of the part numbers on the MaxBMW fiche site should tell you which you have, assuming that is the original alternator.

£250 is a bargain.
 
In 2005 the alternators would have been different between the stock model and the adventure variant (which had a larger wattage capacity). A check of the part numbers on the MaxBMW fiche site should tell you which you have, assuming that is the original alternator.

£250 is a bargain.

But they might all have the same mounting points. Or you could make up a sheet steel adapter plate. 2mm should be enough and not affect the belt tension.
 


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