Cobrra or Scottoiler?
The 701 Info Thread.
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Cobrra Nemo 2 or rather the cheap knock off version - works a treat. I drilled a slanting hole through the bottom chain guide and put the delivery pipe through that so it is in the perfect position to oil the chain. Using 80/90 gear oil.
That's a very neat install on the dispenser 
I have a Nemo 2 on my 1190. So much better than the Scottoiler that used to be fitted. At least it seems to be, but early days with it.
I have a Nemo 2 on my 1190. So much better than the Scottoiler that used to be fitted. At least it seems to be, but early days with it.
That's a very neat install on the dispenser
I have a Nemo 2 on my 1190. So much better than the Scottoiler that used to be fitted. At least it seems to be, but early days with it.
Yes - converted from Scottoiler to Nemo 2 on my latest 1290 (9000 miles so far) - just too difficult to get to a vacuum take-off. Much prefer the Nemo to the Scottoiler
That’s interesting!
I have the NEMO on mine and cable tied it in position without drilling the chain slider. Might revisit that and see if your method is better!
Thanks for the pic - most useful.
I have the NEMO on mine and cable tied it in position without drilling the chain slider. Might revisit that and see if your method is better!
Thanks for the pic - most useful.
Thinking about this type of oiler for the 701 and Himalayan, but wondered of anyone has experience of both the Cobrra Nemo 2 and the Chinese GIDIBII version. Is there a significant difference in quality, durability, form or function for the difference in cost, £27 vs £68 ? How many lubrication cycles will either item do on a full resevoir ? Thanks for any feedback.
Hi Andy
Have the "proper" Cobrra on the 1290 and the knock off version on the 701 - look exactly the same and cheap version has worked just fine so far - been on the bike for about 800 miles now
This is the one I bought - slow delivery but otherwise fine: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264573337223?var=564334495587
Have the "proper" Cobrra on the 1290 and the knock off version on the 701 - look exactly the same and cheap version has worked just fine so far - been on the bike for about 800 miles now
This is the one I bought - slow delivery but otherwise fine: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264573337223?var=564334495587
I bought the genuine Cobrra as I'd done a bit of "research" and concluded that the knock offs might be more susceptible to leaking. Coming from two incontinent Scottoilers, that was important to me. I've since come to the conclusion from more anecdotal evidence that there is probably nothing to choose between them. I may well buy a clone for my 701. Incidentally, they are less than $20 on Aliexpress last time i looked.
My Cobrra will deliver 15 doses of oil from full.
Thanks Paul and Cookie, appreciate your feedback.
701 right hand panel
I'm having trouble getting this out. It's the white tab in the pics,
I'm sure I know how this thing should come out as in, it should be all flat, but I think that it's been forced at some point so the bit that locks it in place is too far over...if you know what I meen.
Any ideas would be gratefully received.
I'm having trouble getting this out. It's the white tab in the pics,
I'm sure I know how this thing should come out as in, it should be all flat, but I think that it's been forced at some point so the bit that locks it in place is too far over...if you know what I meen.
Any ideas would be gratefully received.
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Try pushing in a flat head screw driver to get the tab back in line with the main plastic insert.
Had that panel off my 701 this week and looks like yours has been forced/broken at some point.
If it helps will take a photo of what mine looks like tomorrow.
Had that panel off my 701 this week and looks like yours has been forced/broken at some point.
If it helps will take a photo of what mine looks like tomorrow.
Yes Paul, getting a flat head in there is the problem. I'll have a look at your photo. Cheers.
Well - this is what it should look like
When it is not damaged it is a simple job of just pushing the end of the tab to release it i.e.
Which you can easily do (once you know how) by pushing it with a finger just behind the frame:
I suspect that yours is now too damaged to do this but worth trying to push the main tab back in as far as you can and see it you can straighten the inner tab out
Failing that I think you will have to break off the inner tab and resecure with a cable tie.
The good news is that Husky/KTM plastics are not too expensive if you wanted to replace the panel!
https://gear4motorcycles.co.uk/parts-finder/husqvarna-parts-finder/
Brilliant! Thanks so much for that Paul. I've just seen a video on Youtube and a guy has the same problem, apparently you can take a long screwdriver from the other side and push the tab closed. I'll have a go later and let you know.
Sounds like it could work
If not and "if" the rear panel is the same on the LR as the standard version you could get a new plain panel for circa £38 - https://www.amsmoto.co.uk/rear-fairing-2
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Following my query about sat navs, just gone with the installation bits i got with the zumo for now, rather than on headstock, hard wired straight to battery due to my limitations, but happy its quite a neat job for a novice.
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That's just the sort of thing I'm after, been looking for the Husky 'H' for a while now, where did you get them from please? Quite like the graphics as they are, but as you say sidepanel is huge, and needs a bit of colour.
Came as part of the Husky graphics kit - https://www.amsmoto.co.uk/style-graphics-kit-4
Good value for the whole kit but probably a tad expensive if just after the Husky "H".
Good value for the whole kit but probably a tad expensive if just after the Husky "H".
Managed to sort the Pannal tab out. You can just about get it from the other side.
Rage garage airbox delete
Sorry if this has been covered before but has anyone done this with theirs and, do you need to remap after?
As I'm about to have the valves checked I thought it would make sense to do the mod and save all the faffing around in the future.
Sorry if this has been covered before but has anyone done this with theirs and, do you need to remap after?
As I'm about to have the valves checked I thought it would make sense to do the mod and save all the faffing around in the future.
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