Tyre pressure sensor fault?

Ibex

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I washed the bike today - always a mistake. Off to Geneva with it on Tuesday so I thought it might be nice. Took it for a run up the road to dry it off and the rear tyre pressure sensor appears to have lost the plot. I have a regular flashing red light on the dash, plus the tyre icon, and the RDC display showing no pressure in the rear tyre. Which is patently not true.

I thought (hoped) it would dry off and recover from its assault by pressure washer, if that's what's done it, but I've just done 30 miles up and down the M6 and I still have the flashing light. I don't really fancy the next two weeks and 3000 miles watching that flashing red light - so what's the fix - given I only have 1 day before setting off and lots of things to do in that 24 hours already?:nenau
 
Washing wasn't the mistake....but the pressure washer might have been...

Agree, it's bloody annoying to have a flashing dash light. Maybe it hasn't dried out yet? Have you tried warming it gently to give it a helping hand - I mean gently, never beyond hand hot.



Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
Try letting the tyre down a reinflating it might clear the fault if it’s just moisture
 
The washing had nothing to do with it as the transmitter is sealed inside the rim (and the electronics potted in resin as well) and if water can get
to it air can get out so, no. It's more likely the battery in the transmitter chose that moment to die or something else went wrong with it.
A GS911 would give some clue as to what is going on. The battery can, with some difficulty, be replaced by removing the TPS from the rim and
gaining access to the battery; there are numerous threads to that end on here so a search should throw them up. Other than that, take it (the bike)
to a dealer who will change the TPS for you and pair the new one to the ECU using their computer gubbins; they will, of course charge a lot of cash for that
as the sensor is, at a guess, as not done one for years £100 then the wheel off, tyre off, TPS swap, tyre on, wheel on then do the re-learning of
the TPS to the ECU and bob's your uncle no flashing light. You could of course do the swap yourself saving all that money but you would still need
to use a GS911 or take it to a dealer to get it paired up.

Andi_archer suggested slowly releasing the pressure (this with the ignition on) which can cause the TPS to "wake up" and transmit a signal which can
cause the readout to jump into life but that is not always successful at doing so but, you could try it; if it's not waking up when ridden it's doubtful.

You could of course deal with the annoying light in some way in the interim and deal with the TPS on your return; no TPS isn't terminal.

This is as much as i know, others may know more and be along in due course i imagine.
 
Yes mine went wonky last year and is not covered under the used warrenty so they said, quoted £100 for the sensor too.I replaced the battery as per youtube videos and used hot glue to seal but maybe I didnt quite get it right as it sometimes reads and sometimes the yellow warning comes up as it fails to read at all.
 
I replaced batteries with long date Duracells. Tin a patch on both faces of battery. The under side needs a short flying lead that’s soldered to the terminal. Top side solders direct to the upper terminal.
I resealed it with car body panel acrylic sealant.
 
The washing had nothing to do with it as the transmitter is sealed inside the rim (and the electronics potted in resin as well) and if water can get
to it air can get out so, no. It's more likely the battery in the transmitter chose that moment to die or something else went wrong with it.
A GS911 would give some clue as to what is going on. The battery can, with some difficulty, be replaced by removing the TPS from the rim and
gaining access to the battery; there are numerous threads to that end on here so a search should throw them up. Other than that, take it (the bike)
to a dealer who will change the TPS for you and pair the new one to the ECU using their computer gubbins; they will, of course charge a lot of cash for that
as the sensor is, at a guess, as not done one for years £100 then the wheel off, tyre off, TPS swap, tyre on, wheel on then do the re-learning of
the TPS to the ECU and bob's your uncle no flashing light. You could of course do the swap yourself saving all that money but you would still need
to use a GS911 or take it to a dealer to get it paired up.

Andi_archer suggested slowly releasing the pressure (this with the ignition on) which can cause the TPS to "wake up" and transmit a signal which can
cause the readout to jump into life but that is not always successful at doing so but, you could try it; if it's not waking up when ridden it's doubtful.

You could of course deal with the annoying light in some way in the interim and deal with the TPS on your return; no TPS isn't terminal.

This is as much as i know, others may know more and be along in due course i imagine.
Your thinking makes sense - I stand corrected :-). But personally I would still avoid the pressure washer....

Reading this with interest. New to a bike with tps. Really like them. But I'm also learning they're a little vulnerable to tyre changes, depending on who's doing it.

Ref the batteries, how long are they supposed to last? Do they power up with the movement? They can't be broadcasting all the time?



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Avoid the power wash if you like but not to save the TPS's as it makes no difference whatsoever to them. The batteries, hmm. how long's a piece of string? When the wheels rotate the TPS's wake up and transmit. There is a piece of kit the dealers use that wakes them whilst stationary. Strangely, one of mine awakes just by turning the ignition on :nenau
 
Never used a pressure washer on a bike. And I never would, with or without tps. There's simply no need...

But I'm still not clear how these things work? Is there a mechanical trigger inside them - accelerometer, pressure switch? I get how software might override that. I'm interested if anyone knows.

Bendy's solution sounds a good one, if the op had the time.

But any news on the outcome? Any luck clearing the warning triangle? !

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 
It looks like mine have failed in the past, according to the BMW history file it was a broken wire under the tank, they have failed again at some point so I have the yellow triangle on all of the time, the sensors have been replaced so I’ll have a look when I get the time to take the tank off to see if it’s a broken wire again.
 
Just put new batteries in mine 😉they lasted 9 years ,when sensors were off if shaken gently they rattled so I'm guessing some sort of accelerometer inside .
After fixing and new avon trailriders fitted display kicked in with both pressures within 50 yards 😀
 
Sounds like just a random causality with the wash and the batteries are just dying ? Unless you got some of the electronics up on front wet... water will do nothing to the sensors itself.

As above, replace the batteries a handy enough job and works 100%. I did them in mine and came back up with no issues at all... in my case the batteries lasted 10 years, so good enough. Trickiest part of the whole process is removing the tyres to which I took the wheels to a local garage, the rest easy enough to do in about 15/20 mins.


Cheers,
Rami
 
If the pressure reading shows with just ign on, might be battery is powering all the time, i.e. icckle switch stuck on...
 
I believe the sensors have to be fitted the right way around. With overhang facing direction of rotation.
 
TPS warning

Being stuck for time when I launched this thread, I took the really high tech route and put some black insulating tape across the idiot light on the dash and went on the trip. 2500 miles later the thing is still flashing at me and the dash is still telling me my back tyre is flat.

Today I had my local garage strip off the tyre to get the sensor out. It's now in my hand and I'm keen to set about repairing it as per Youtube video advice. I will report results! Thanks for all the suggestions .
 
Hi Ibex,Replaced my batteries a few weeks back , just be careful releasing the tags off the old batteries they are spot welded on so need to be eased off with a thin blade , make sure you come at the bottom one from the side I managed to break it off circuit board and had to solder a wire on to replace it. I re sealed both with a hot glue gun ,work fine now ;)
 
Hi Ibex,Replaced my batteries a few weeks back , just be careful releasing the tags off the old batteries they are spot welded on so need to be eased off with a thin blade , make sure you come at the bottom one from the side I managed to break it off circuit board and had to solder a wire on to replace it. I re sealed both with a hot glue gun ,work fine now ;)

I levered mine off with a fine and very sharp screwdriver. Then solder tinned the new battery faces and soldered a short link wire to the bottom terminal. The top was OK going direct to the battery cell. Car body acrylic sealant filled in the potting compound.
 


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