Roadcaptain
Registered user
I got my bike out yesterday after giving her a wash at the weekend to find the clock was wrong, reset it and went on my merry way today clock was 12 hours out, any ideas?
Clock issue
- Thread starter Roadcaptain
- Start date
luke scott
Registered user
If it's twelve hours out then you are the problem 
. You set it in the opposite time . . . . ie AM instead of PM 
. Don't ask me how I know 
.
. You set it in the opposite time . . . . ie AM instead of PM . Don't ask me how I know .jeremyj
Registered user
Yes it is a twenty four hour clock just sayin
Battery.
Uncle Crumpet
Registered user
your the new Dr Who?
luke scott
Registered user
Nope. The battery will just zero clock at startup.
How far out is it today.
Roadcaptain
Registered user
I have noticed today that it reset as I switched the ignition off so I guess a dodgy connection somewhere, but just flashed off then came back at 0000
Disconnect the battery, then reconnect it at midnight. 
Check/replace/clean fuse 3.
Roadcaptain
Registered user
done that will update
Roadcaptain
Registered user
so an update, clean and checked the fuse then that night clock lost a few hours time, then all good for a week or so, however, now it has turned cold again when I switched the ignition off last night clock reset to 0000???????? any ideas?
^ this was my problem when i had the same symptoms as you. battery would appear to charge fine, but discharged very quickly. clock would reset to 0000 every time i turned the engine over (which happened sluggishly).
solved with a new battery.
Irishdude
Registered user
Get a new battery 
Roadcaptain
Registered user
Battery is only a year old and bike starts fine every day even if left for a week, problem is when I switch off
Maybe you have a similar problem to my 1150 then - the ignition switch was jiggery.
Turn on with key: lights came on, neutral, oil and charge lamps lit, no fuel gauge but clock running and showing perfectly good time. No fuel pump hum, bike would turn over but not fire up, due to no fuel pump.
Turn on and off a few times and rattle key fore and aft a bit in the key slot (jiggle it about) suddenly LCd fuel gauge would light up, fuel gauge turned on and pump hummed. Press starter, fired up immediately. Clock reset itself.
It urned out to be the actual ignition switch, which sits underneath the ignition key barrel and has the wire with white square bit showing coming out on left hand side - it is held in by one screw up the middle from underneath and has a length of wire about a foot long on it with a red block connector on the end. Once changed everything works perfectly again - the connections inside the switch corrode so they don't have much left to make contact with. It is a white plastic, round unit with all the connections inside. Not cheap, cost me £85 for that plastic switch.
Turn on with key: lights came on, neutral, oil and charge lamps lit, no fuel gauge but clock running and showing perfectly good time. No fuel pump hum, bike would turn over but not fire up, due to no fuel pump.
Turn on and off a few times and rattle key fore and aft a bit in the key slot (jiggle it about) suddenly LCd fuel gauge would light up, fuel gauge turned on and pump hummed. Press starter, fired up immediately. Clock reset itself.
It urned out to be the actual ignition switch, which sits underneath the ignition key barrel and has the wire with white square bit showing coming out on left hand side - it is held in by one screw up the middle from underneath and has a length of wire about a foot long on it with a red block connector on the end. Once changed everything works perfectly again - the connections inside the switch corrode so they don't have much left to make contact with. It is a white plastic, round unit with all the connections inside. Not cheap, cost me £85 for that plastic switch.
The clock will reset to zero if the battery voltage falls below a certain level. This can be seen sometimes when a high cranking current is drawn from the battery during a start.
So my guess is that some where between the fuse and the RIder information Display, you have a poor connection, probably due to corrosion that is dropping the 12v supply to a level that the clock resets when the RID is powered off. I’m assuming that everything else with the RID is working OK, so rule out a poor ground. I would check the grey 8 way connector that sits under the tank. It might need cleaning (corrosion). If this doesn’t work, then you have to understand that The Rider Information Display is a primarily a semi conductor devise and it could be that some where inside the unit, you have either a broken track or a corroded connection.
Ian
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When I first got my 1150 it used to do this with the OEM battery.
I put in an Odyssey which has higher cranking amps and have never had the problem since (unless the battery has run very low for whatever reason)
Do you have an optimate or other battery charger? Leave the bike on charge for a couple of days and see if that fixes it.
I put in an Odyssey which has higher cranking amps and have never had the problem since (unless the battery has run very low for whatever reason)
Do you have an optimate or other battery charger? Leave the bike on charge for a couple of days and see if that fixes it.
Roadcaptain
Registered user
thanks Ian I will take a look next weekend
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