Rattling engine and seizing exhaust flap.

Last bike...I’ve heard that one before. ‘IN MY HEAD’.

I’ll fly ride...keep mine for just big Euro trips.

No I’ll ride it to some exotic or not place. Oh *hit got the wrong bike. Need something lighter and less complicated.

Ah can’t be arsed with a carnet, I’ll fly ride.

Ah that’s a cop out, I want to overland or bust. Mmmm how quick will a techno trickery bike go bust. Need a less complicated bike.

Ahh but my GSA is so damn comfy - proper mile cruncher.

And so it goes on.... :loopy
 
With what I've experienced on here over the past two years.... I'd rather keep the R1200GSA bike I have, and buy a completely different bike with my extra money...

Like an Africa Twin DCT, or MT10SP, or H2SXSE+, or something else exciting to play with... even a frickin Monkey Bike.
 
As said, it's a consumable these days

You've been saying that for years. It's still bollocks :aidan

2013 GS making £7500 on the bay, he would have paid £13500 so over 6 years depreciation is £1k a year.

Bloody cheap hobby at £1k a year. ;)

Some people spend many multiples of that, hitting a ball with a stick, while wearing funny trousers.
 
Haha, that's what I tell my wife.

Yes I agree it's more expense if you cover all angles, I don't need an extra wheelset I could easily sell my spoked wheels and get my money back. I could easily sell my working ESA suspension and get half my money back. My BMW tools are paid for within two services, so it's not as bad as you think.

The alternative is....

£15,800 on the bike.

BMW Service costs
- 1st Service free of charge
- 6000 Service £125
- 12000 Service £250
- 18000 Service £125

- Suspension failure at 14000 miles, replaced under Warranty.
- Shaft Drive and Final Drive rusty, replaced under Warranty.

So you're £500 invested.... now what?

Your options....

a) You extend your warranty for 2 years and fingers crossed on an ageing bike? Most likely with duff suspension at this point. Another £700? Plus Servicing costs £ 500.... and any other weird and wacky problems.

b) You spend £ 7000 on a new bike, plus any increase on insurance premium and new farkles needed.

So keeping the bike inside BMW until 4 years old will still cost you at least £ 1,700 relying on Warranty to get you through.... and you still don't have BMW tools, or a spare wheelset, or Ohlins bling to play with.

I also shop around to buy consumables at the best price and fit them myself.

You'll be paying RRP and BMW Labour Charges along the way if you give the bike to them.

You also forgot the anguish/disappointment when the 7k you put towards that brand new spanking bike has go back to BMW to be fixed..
 
You also forgot the anguish/disappointment when the 7k you put towards that brand new spanking bike has go back to BMW to be fixed..

Well yes, I didn't like to say.... but that's how the Beta test program works.

People say, "Don't worry, it's under warranty" .... but THAT really is not the point. It's shit.

So BMW must think your time is completely available, free of charge, and on call whenever they need you to sit around waiting for their products to work? :nenau
 
Yup - I think I may have found the answer courtesy of my 2014 LC GSA! I’ll post what I think I’ve found laters!


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Right, guys, here we go - this is only my ‘take’ on what’s wrong and here I’m referring to my 2014 R1200GSA rattle and not my R1250GS but it’s my belief (and only my belief - I bow and grovel respectfully to all the experts out there) that this ‘could’ be the problem with my later 1250. Yes I understand it can be many things incl camchain and valve clearances (both of which check out ok on my bikes btw) so I stress it’s only my opinion of what might be wrong on both my bikes!!!!

With that said the attached image shows the LH cylinder head with the camshafts and valves removed revealing a shaft which fits into a housing in the head itself. There’s a radial clearance of 0.3mm on this shaft and I ‘think’ this is the problem. The photo is from a geezer in Brazil (I think) and all recognition must go to him for it.

I feel that BMW, being the tinkers they are at times, are simply ignoring this as “not a failure” which it may be but, for me, the bloody rattling gets on my tits!

So, the solution would be to remove the shaft, turn the shaft down and fit a bush to eliminate the radial clearance and thereby removing the rattle. Serious surgery I know but that’s what I think the answer might be! Might all be b*llocks (and usually is from me). I’m going to try a much less invasive solution on the R1200GSA shortly, a cheat really and not a proper fix, but let’s see!

Once again I stress this isn’t my work - I’m just grabbing info from what I can find on the internet and applying it to my situation and then sharing it in the hope it may help others!
d6c540108eb2f9076675fe9df51c0552.jpg



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Right, guys, here we go - this is only my ‘take’ on what’s wrong and here I’m referring to my 2014 R1200GSA rattle and not my R1250GS but it’s my belief (and only my belief - I bow and grovel respectfully to all the experts out there) that this ‘could’ be the problem with my later 1250. Yes I understand it can be many things incl camchain and valve clearances (both of which check out ok on my bikes btw) so I stress it’s only my opinion of what might be wrong on both my bikes!!!!

With that said the attached image shows the LH cylinder head with the camshafts and valves removed revealing a shaft which fits into a housing in the head itself. There’s a radial clearance of 0.3mm on this shaft and I ‘think’ this is the problem. The photo is from a geezer in Brazil (I think) and all recognition must go to him for it.

I feel that BMW, being the tinkers they are at times, are simply ignoring this as “not a failure” which it may be but, for me, the bloody rattling gets on my tits!

So, the solution would be to remove the shaft, turn the shaft down and fit a bush to eliminate the radial clearance and thereby removing the rattle. Serious surgery I know but that’s what I think the answer might be! Might all be b*llocks (and usually is from me). I’m going to try a much less invasive solution on the R1200GSA shortly, a cheat really and not a proper fix, but let’s see!

Once again I stress this isn’t my work - I’m just grabbing info from what I can find on the internet and applying it to my situation and then sharing it in the hope it may help others!
d6c540108eb2f9076675fe9df51c0552.jpg



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What about metal spraying it, then turning down to "correct" diameter ?

Can you make/design a bush with your printer ?

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Ah, spraying would only be more reliable on thicker diameters IMHO. Bushing, possibly with phozzy bronze or similar (if anyone remembers that!) would be the better idea with a substantial amount taken off the shaft in the first place (pointless/impossible to make a Bush 0.3mm thick). As for printing a solution - that wouldn’t work as for plastics there’s the heat issue and for printed metals there’s the strength concerns - machined bush is the way to go! IMHO!


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Ah, spraying would only be more reliable on thicker diameters IMHO. Bushing, possibly with phozzy bronze or similar (if anyone remembers that!) would be the better idea with a substantial amount taken off the shaft in the first place (pointless/impossible to make a Bush 0.3mm thick). As for printing a solution - that wouldn’t work as for plastics there’s the heat issue and for printed metals there’s the strength concerns - machined bush is the way to go! IMHO!


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And what about simply making a perfect size shaft that fits, or would the cost be madness, if it was wreck my bike or buy a new shaft, I know what I would do.........:beerjug:
 
Tbh I wouldn’t trust BMW to be able to supply a new shaft which would not have the same issues as the worn one (shortcuts with cheaper materials/manufacturing resulting in rubbish parts????) so I would go for bushing, right or wrong!


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Tbh I wouldn’t trust BMW to be able to supply a new shaft which would not have the same issues as the worn one (shortcuts with cheaper materials/manufacturing resulting in rubbish parts????) so I would go for bushing, right or wrong!


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I am thinking of a Cymarc shaft............:rob
 
Is that gap there to allow heat expansion? Or lateral movement in some way?

Would filling the gap create unwanted pressure on engine casing?
 


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