Roadlok - key issues?

putt1ck

Because it's more GS than the 1300
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I bought and fitted a Roadlok shortly after acquiring my 1250GS last year. Because I'd had the KTM one before I don't think I bothered to test the lock after fitting. Much of my travel is business related and so the bike ends up in reasonably secure private parking areas and so the Roadlok wasn't used. A few weeks ago I had to park somewhere less secure so went to use the Roadlok - the key turned 90 degrees and no further; I assumed that was winter riding plus lack of use of the lock and carried on. Once I got home again I tried cleaning and lubing the lock, with the only outcome being the key turned through the 90 degrees more smoothly. I have since used degreaser and then graphite just to tick the boxes, but still 90 degrees is all it will turn.

Is it possible I just have mismatching keys and lock or should I persist with the cleaning/lubrication cycles? Does anyone with a Roadlok have a mate with one that could check what a "definitely wrong" key does when tried?

Thanks

Chris
 
I bought and fitted a Roadlok shortly after acquiring my 1250GS last year. Because I'd had the KTM one before I don't think I bothered to test the lock after fitting. Much of my travel is business related and so the bike ends up in reasonably secure private parking areas and so the Roadlok wasn't used. A few weeks ago I had to park somewhere less secure so went to use the Roadlok - the key turned 90 degrees and no further; I assumed that was winter riding plus lack of use of the lock and carried on. Once I got home again I tried cleaning and lubing the lock, with the only outcome being the key turned through the 90 degrees more smoothly. I have since used degreaser and then graphite just to tick the boxes, but still 90 degrees is all it will turn.

Is it possible I just have mismatching keys and lock or should I persist with the cleaning/lubrication cycles? Does anyone with a Roadlok have a mate with one that could check what a "definitely wrong" key does when tried?

Thanks

Chris
It will be clogged up with road salt etc. They are bad for this if you don't maintain it regularly. Remove the whole thing and immerse it in some release oil. That should help, no guarantee though.
 
I’ve had similar. Persist with a suitable lock lubricant and it will likely free up. As previous poster said best to remove and thoroughly clean.
 
If it is salt in the lock, why not boil the kettle and flush it out?

Salt dissolves readily in hot water, not so much cold.

In this weather it should soon dry out, then once the lock is free to operate spray liberally with WD to displace any remaining moisture.
 
This is the advice from the Bennetts site.


How to clean and maintain Roadlok​

Over the past few years, small changes have been made to the Roadlok, not least the nylon blanking plug that locks in place while the bike’s being ridden. Also added though are a rubbery cap that covers the lock barrel, and a clear patch that covers the hole machined through the body for the internal locking pin.

These changes mean the Roadlok is well protected from the elements, but there are still a few things to be aware of to keep it at its best.

Roadlok can be completely disassembled if needs be, and it’s hard to imagine any way it could seize up during normal use – it’s not going to leave you stranded. Owner reviews (see below) indicate that there are no long-term problems with the Roadlok, but as with everything on BikeSocial, I’ll keep this updated.

While I’d perhaps not suggest someone who regularly uses their bike for wading through deep mud fits one, taking care of it isn’t hard and all the parts are available as spares if you need them:

  • Use the protective plug and lock barrel cap to minimise any dirt ingress
  • Keep the Roadlok washed with clean water, and ensure no crud has managed to build up inside any of the recesses or the lock barrel. After washing, blow the water out with compressed air or a bike dryer
  • Do not use any spray lubricants on the lock; use only graphite powder.


Tom
 
It's had all the spray cleaners/penetrating lubricants I have in my armoury, plus use of graphite powder as a sort of just in case magic dust solution, but in the end the 90 degree turn feels a lot like how far it would turn with the wrong key. I checked the Roadlok videos and my key seems to be going in the same amount as theirs. The only thing I've not tried yet is taking it off the bike so it can be thoroughly cleaned and soaked in chemicals, so I'll just have to find the time to try that.
 
Could it be that you need to wiggle around a bit more to make sure the key is firmly home?

I find that sometimes the lock thingies get out of alignment and the key doesn't go all the way in, I then wiggle it about a bit until it does.
 
Could it be that you need to wiggle around a bit more to make sure the key is firmly home?

I find that sometimes the lock thingies get out of alignment and the key doesn't go all the way in, I then wiggle it about a bit until it does.
I've had this issue with my Oxford Disc lock. On more than one occasion I thought I was going to have to get the disc lock forcibly removed. I've lost such confidence in it that it sits idly on the garage shelf now.
 
Could it be that you need to wiggle around a bit more to make sure the key is firmly home?

I find that sometimes the lock thingies get out of alignment and the key doesn't go all the way in, I then wiggle it about a bit until it does.
I wiggled and waggled until there was no more wiggle or waggle left in me... And I checked the visual from the Roadlok demo video and the key is as far in as the one they are turning.
 
I wiggled and waggled until there was no more wiggle or waggle left in me... And I checked the visual from the Roadlok demo video and the key is as far in as the one they are turning.
Take it off and throw it in the bin.........they are shite.....
 
This is the advice from the Bennetts site.


How to clean and maintain Roadlok​

Over the past few years, small changes have been made to the Roadlok, not least the nylon blanking plug that locks in place while the bike’s being ridden. Also added though are a rubbery cap that covers the lock barrel, and a clear patch that covers the hole machined through the body for the internal locking pin.

These changes mean the Roadlok is well protected from the elements, but there are still a few things to be aware of to keep it at its best.

Roadlok can be completely disassembled if needs be, and it’s hard to imagine any way it could seize up during normal use – it’s not going to leave you stranded. Owner reviews (see below) indicate that there are no long-term problems with the Roadlok, but as with everything on BikeSocial, I’ll keep this updated.

While I’d perhaps not suggest someone who regularly uses their bike for wading through deep mud fits one, taking care of it isn’t hard and all the parts are available as spares if you need them:

  • Use the protective plug and lock barrel cap to minimise any dirt ingress
  • Keep the Roadlok washed with clean water, and ensure no crud has managed to build up inside any of the recesses or the lock barrel. After washing, blow the water out with compressed air or a bike dryer
  • Do not use any spray lubricants on the lock; use only graphite powder.


Tom
I wonder how much it cost for that review, utter shite.......
 
Take it off and throw it in the bin.........they are shite.....
What is shite about them?

I've had one for 5 years, bike used all year, every 6 months or so I give the lock a quick squirt of WD40 to clear the grime. I only ever 'set' it when the bike is on the centre stand as it makes releasing the pin much easier.
 
What is shite about them?

I've had one for 5 years, bike used all year, every 6 months or so I give the lock a quick squirt of WD40 to clear the grime. I only ever 'set' it when the bike is on the centre stand as it makes releasing the pin much easier.
Good for you. I think they are shite....
 
Had a similar issue with my new one on the 1300 (previous 1250 one had worked fine for years). Lock barrel is being replaced under warranty. Took a bit of fiddling to get key turned enough to remove barrel (can only be done with lRoadLok unlocked) but managed in the end. Barrel mechanism and locking pin were very ‘graunchy’
 
I had one on my last KTM and after the first winter in inactivity it acted up until I removed it, cleaned and dried it then lubricated it with graphite powder.

I certainly wouldn’t leave one locking my bike in the garage for a few months without cleaning it then using the graphite powder in advance.

Overall I’d say that they’re a 9/10 for effectiveness when used as a travelling lock and 1/10 for use and forget type of behaviour.
 
Had a similar issue with my new one on the 1300 (previous 1250 one had worked fine for years). Lock barrel is being replaced under warranty. Took a bit of fiddling to get key turned enough to remove barrel (can only be done with lRoadLok unlocked) but managed in the end. Barrel mechanism and locking pin were very ‘graunchy’
Mine is in the same state; turns 90 degrees no issue, solid after that. Reasonably confident I could try turning it hard enough to break the key and it wouldn't turn further. Still haven't got round to taking it off to soak in penetrating oil but equally confident that when I do it won't make any difference (though I'll be pleased if it does!).
 


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