Damir
Guest
Some general info about Vis Island can be found on Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vis_(island)).
Vis is probably strategically the most important island in Adriatic Sea. Vis was intensively fortified from early 19th century, first by UK, then by Austro-Hungarian Empire and everybody else who controlled the island. I will quote one paragraph from article.
Well, I am not sure that last sentence is correct, there is lot of “really” abandoned sites as you will see in this report.
After Zeljava (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240446), we found out that abandoned military installations are cool places to visit.
My friend Lolo and I were talking a lot about visiting Vis, and Labour Day (01.05) meant that I will be able to have few days to make the trip. Lolo is much more knowledgeable when fortifications are concerned, so he planned the entire trip, and took majority of the pictures.
Let’s start.
Day one, 30.04.
First day was in fact ride from Zagreb to Split, nothing especially interesting, we do it few times a year, but we had encounter with two extremely cool persons. While pulling over on our favorite resting place in Rastoke near Slunj, we spotted two bikes parked in the shade, riders were nearby, and so we started talking. Gustavo and Elke are on the RTW with Yamahas YBR 125. Here you can read about their adventure: http://www.re-moto.com/index.php?lang=eng
In the evening we were in Klis, near Split. We slept in Lolo’s friend Vlado house. Vlado’s wife Lada made excellent dinner for us. Thanks!
Tomorrow we got ferry to catch.
Day two, 01.05.
Ferry started at 11 o’clock and ride lasted about two and a half hours.
Leaving Split.
Arriving in Vis harbor.
Because some of Yugoslav People's Army (JLA) sites are still on landmine suspected area we decided that we will need some local help. Before our trip we contacted Jurica, local who organizes visits to some of the sites. We agreed that we will visit “clean” sites by ourselves, and Jurica will lead us on fourth day to visit some potentially dangerous places. Jurica left us envelope in local bar with map and his recommendations what to visit.
Well, I think I owe you explanation about landmines, I did it in Zeljava report but I can’t resist repeating myself. Tourism brings large part of Croatian national income and I always feel little uncomfortable when showing “dark side” of my country. All these sites are in remote areas, and there is absolutely no danger in any more frequently visited area. Millions of tourists visit Croatia every year and there are no landmine incidents. If you stumble upon some military looking installation, just stay clear of it.
OK, let’s start riding.
First site to visit is Fort Wellington, built by British forces at the beginning of 19th century. It was one of two forts controlling entry in bay of Vis.
It is easy to get lost on gravel roads, but there is lot of locals working in their vineyards, so they pointed us in the right direction.
We also tied to reach St. Andrija peak because Jurica wrote that we can expect magnificent view, but it was impossible, road was blocked by heavy machinery.
Back to Podselje village, Plisko polje, location of airfield from WWII is visible from there. Plisko polje was base of 352. (Y) R.A.F. Squadron http://www.yuairwar.com/novj.asp Location is marked with red-white columns.
While we were taking pictures, donkey fell in love with my GS.
There is monument on the hill overlooking the field.
Day three, 02.05.
Day started with visit to the other side of bay of Vis. King George fortress is bigger than Wellington, and it is in much better condition.
We proceeded towards Parja bay, and there we saw entry into tunnel. Tunnel was in fact missile boat base. Road to the entry to the tunnel leads around little peninsula.
Driving around peninsula we saw ruined barracks, we stopped and soon discovered entry into tunnels. Tunnels led us to the gun emplacements. Coastal battery (4 guns) was stationed there, its task was probably defending entry into the bay with missile boat base.
Another tunnel is nearby, but it is very short, it was probably used as magazine of some kind. Don’t ask me who hanged old bike frame on the entry.
There are few bunkers and small tunnels on the top of the mountain.
Finally we reached missile boat tunnel. It is 140 meters long and 18 meters high.
OK, back to some WWII stuff. After surviving raid on Drvar (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=336513), Tito founded his new HQ on Vis. Few landscapes from our way there.
HQ was located in the cave, there are 289 stairs leading to it.
We finished the day with visit to Komiza (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Komiza).
Day four, 03.05.
First location is British military cemetery.
Royal Naval Commandos insignia.
Here you can read about No 2. Commando operations from Vis. http://www.commandoveterans.org/history_2cdo_d.html
Location was used for resupplying torpedo boats. Barracks were on the surface, and magazines were dug in the nearby mountain. Entry in the tunnels is hard to find, but we met some locals who pointed us in the right direction.
OK, now it’s time to move to some really cool stuff. We finally met with Jurica, our guide to dangerous locations. If you plan to visit some of locations described in this RR, PM me and I will give you Jurica’s mobile number.
Vela Glava is biggest underground complex in island. It was excavated in the '70s and it was designed as main naval command centre in case of war. Site is DANGEROUS, there is lot of LANDMINES around, so only safe way there is with some local assistance.
Another interesting thing is that this complex is probably very similar to some of Saddam’s bunkers in Iraq because they were also designed by Yugoslav engineers before First Gulf War.
Our guide Jurica.
We entered tunnels at the base of the mountain and exited at the top. It was quite a climb on steep stairs in claustrophobic tunnels. It was pleasant to see daylight again.
Stupisce was big magazine for land – sea missiles.
Ventilation shafts were masked as traditional houses.
Outside.
Inside.
There is another coastal battery nearby.
Next day we caught the morning ferry, and we were back in Zagreb at late afternoon.
OK, next RR coming soon I hope, on 31.05 we are heading towards Ukraine and Russia.
Thanks for reading.
Vis is probably strategically the most important island in Adriatic Sea. Vis was intensively fortified from early 19th century, first by UK, then by Austro-Hungarian Empire and everybody else who controlled the island. I will quote one paragraph from article.
Well, I am not sure that last sentence is correct, there is lot of “really” abandoned sites as you will see in this report.
After Zeljava (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=240446), we found out that abandoned military installations are cool places to visit.
My friend Lolo and I were talking a lot about visiting Vis, and Labour Day (01.05) meant that I will be able to have few days to make the trip. Lolo is much more knowledgeable when fortifications are concerned, so he planned the entire trip, and took majority of the pictures.
Let’s start.
Day one, 30.04.
First day was in fact ride from Zagreb to Split, nothing especially interesting, we do it few times a year, but we had encounter with two extremely cool persons. While pulling over on our favorite resting place in Rastoke near Slunj, we spotted two bikes parked in the shade, riders were nearby, and so we started talking. Gustavo and Elke are on the RTW with Yamahas YBR 125. Here you can read about their adventure: http://www.re-moto.com/index.php?lang=eng
In the evening we were in Klis, near Split. We slept in Lolo’s friend Vlado house. Vlado’s wife Lada made excellent dinner for us. Thanks!
Tomorrow we got ferry to catch.
Day two, 01.05.
Ferry started at 11 o’clock and ride lasted about two and a half hours.
Leaving Split.
Arriving in Vis harbor.
Because some of Yugoslav People's Army (JLA) sites are still on landmine suspected area we decided that we will need some local help. Before our trip we contacted Jurica, local who organizes visits to some of the sites. We agreed that we will visit “clean” sites by ourselves, and Jurica will lead us on fourth day to visit some potentially dangerous places. Jurica left us envelope in local bar with map and his recommendations what to visit.
Well, I think I owe you explanation about landmines, I did it in Zeljava report but I can’t resist repeating myself. Tourism brings large part of Croatian national income and I always feel little uncomfortable when showing “dark side” of my country. All these sites are in remote areas, and there is absolutely no danger in any more frequently visited area. Millions of tourists visit Croatia every year and there are no landmine incidents. If you stumble upon some military looking installation, just stay clear of it.
OK, let’s start riding.
First site to visit is Fort Wellington, built by British forces at the beginning of 19th century. It was one of two forts controlling entry in bay of Vis.
It is easy to get lost on gravel roads, but there is lot of locals working in their vineyards, so they pointed us in the right direction.
We also tied to reach St. Andrija peak because Jurica wrote that we can expect magnificent view, but it was impossible, road was blocked by heavy machinery.
Back to Podselje village, Plisko polje, location of airfield from WWII is visible from there. Plisko polje was base of 352. (Y) R.A.F. Squadron http://www.yuairwar.com/novj.asp Location is marked with red-white columns.
While we were taking pictures, donkey fell in love with my GS.
There is monument on the hill overlooking the field.
Day three, 02.05.
Day started with visit to the other side of bay of Vis. King George fortress is bigger than Wellington, and it is in much better condition.
We proceeded towards Parja bay, and there we saw entry into tunnel. Tunnel was in fact missile boat base. Road to the entry to the tunnel leads around little peninsula.
Driving around peninsula we saw ruined barracks, we stopped and soon discovered entry into tunnels. Tunnels led us to the gun emplacements. Coastal battery (4 guns) was stationed there, its task was probably defending entry into the bay with missile boat base.
Another tunnel is nearby, but it is very short, it was probably used as magazine of some kind. Don’t ask me who hanged old bike frame on the entry.
There are few bunkers and small tunnels on the top of the mountain.
Finally we reached missile boat tunnel. It is 140 meters long and 18 meters high.
OK, back to some WWII stuff. After surviving raid on Drvar (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=336513), Tito founded his new HQ on Vis. Few landscapes from our way there.
HQ was located in the cave, there are 289 stairs leading to it.
We finished the day with visit to Komiza (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Komiza).
Day four, 03.05.
First location is British military cemetery.
Royal Naval Commandos insignia.
Here you can read about No 2. Commando operations from Vis. http://www.commandoveterans.org/history_2cdo_d.html
Location was used for resupplying torpedo boats. Barracks were on the surface, and magazines were dug in the nearby mountain. Entry in the tunnels is hard to find, but we met some locals who pointed us in the right direction.
OK, now it’s time to move to some really cool stuff. We finally met with Jurica, our guide to dangerous locations. If you plan to visit some of locations described in this RR, PM me and I will give you Jurica’s mobile number.
Vela Glava is biggest underground complex in island. It was excavated in the '70s and it was designed as main naval command centre in case of war. Site is DANGEROUS, there is lot of LANDMINES around, so only safe way there is with some local assistance.
Another interesting thing is that this complex is probably very similar to some of Saddam’s bunkers in Iraq because they were also designed by Yugoslav engineers before First Gulf War.
Our guide Jurica.
We entered tunnels at the base of the mountain and exited at the top. It was quite a climb on steep stairs in claustrophobic tunnels. It was pleasant to see daylight again.
Stupisce was big magazine for land – sea missiles.
Ventilation shafts were masked as traditional houses.
Outside.
Inside.
There is another coastal battery nearby.
Next day we caught the morning ferry, and we were back in Zagreb at late afternoon.
OK, next RR coming soon I hope, on 31.05 we are heading towards Ukraine and Russia.
Thanks for reading.
