Roadlok issues

[andyscott]

Parcel force twats, it will be £5 tax and 20 quid fucking admin charge, robbing bastards

That's why more stuff is being opened, couriers make a fortune in admin costs, I wonder if they would release that information under FOI act?

[Deleted account 191119001]

Parcel force twats, it will be £5 tax and 20 quid fucking admin charge, robbing bastards

That's why more stuff is being opened, couriers make a fortune in admin costs, I wonder if they would release that information under FOI act?

Save a penny pay a pound later, never a truer phrase..........

[yofi]

I got an email back from Ian McCarthy the owner who said we can use UKGSER as a discount code to get 15% off at Checkout online.

After discount applied my PayPal charge was £ 149.63 with USD to GBP conversion, which includes shipping to UK. But we'll have import tax on top of that so it isn't exactly cheap, but I think worth it.

Incidentally, I also saw on UK Ebay a guy selling his brand new Roadlok for £200 on a buy it now. BUT, the bolt threads in his kit are not BMW Specific and when I checked with Ian McCarthy at Roadlok his email reply was as follows:-

"BMW bikes use coarse thread mounting bolts (1.5mm), whereas all other bikes use a finer thread (1.25mm). Attempting to use the wrong mounting hardware will strip out your fork, so please be sure the kit contains the right type. That being said, we used to sell kits that included all of the hardware, so it is possible if you are purchasing off ebay that it is one of these older kits that includes everything. We stopped doing this because there was so much waste, and customizing the hardware allowed us to pass cost savings on to our customers."

So I decided to not bother with it and buy it directly from him instead. Just a heads up.

Perhaps the discount could be placed as a sticky somewhere. I ordered direct last week but wasn't aware of the discount! Would have covered the import dues!

[Deleted account 191119001]

UKGSER

[ibgarrow]

LC GS 2017 K50 - used C spacer, although you can confirm this by measuring as Roadlok suggest.

[Warlord]

Just wanted to bring Roadlok users attention to this issue I had.

My Roadlok over winter was exposed to salt.

I went on holiday in February this year for 2 weeks in the sun, back home my Roadlok locking mechanism siezed.

The barrel mechanism was freed with WD40 temporarily, but the lock barrel had jammed so it wouldn't release the plastic round dust guard.

Luckily, I hadn't used the locking pin.... or it would have jammed in situ with no easy way to release it.

I contacted Ian at Roadlok who asked me to return the faulty jammed unit, and he sent me a brand new unit free of charge.

Excellent service.

BUT.... be wary of the barrel jamming with corrosion and don't leave the locking pin in for long periods of time.... would be my advice.

[Baz]

Mine was also seized in a few weeks ago. I’ll only use it when I park up away from the house in future .

[Deleted account 191119001]

As has been said already, give it a clean and lube every now and again......

[Zoton]

As there is no instructions for the roadlock, you don't have to take the bracket off the caliper to remove the barrel .I did here but just in case as its not obvious for the non mechanically minded

To remove the lock
barrel (lock cylinder):
1. Turn the key to the fully unlocked position.

2. Insert a small allen key into the crosshole on the lock body, and press
it into the deadbolt, which will force the deadbolt to push inside the
lock cylinder.

3. Pull on the key, and the entire lock cylinder should slide out of the lock
body.

4. Clean and replace.






Just alen key for removal

[ShakeyBMW]

The face of my lock barrel has gone black! Roadlock say they’ve never hear of this before (I can’t believe I’m the only one - anyway, I quite like it).

My lock became hard to use too so I removed it from the bike, sprayed the lock with brake cleaner, gave it an oil bath, repeated the rinse, dried it, lightly oiled it and replaced.

Previous advice about graphite dusting worked to a point but the first spraying came out very black!

Thanks for your post Zoton, it’ll be a lot easier in future although I do put a disc of Helicopter tape over the wee hole to stop crud ingress which I’ll obviously need to remove first.

There’s no substitute for regular, preventive maintenance.

[Warlord]

As there is no instructions for the roadlock, you don't have to take the bracket off the caliper to remove the barrel .I did here but just in case as its not obvious for the non mechanically minded

To remove the lock
barrel (lock cylinder):
1. Turn the key to the fully unlocked position.

2. Insert a small allen key into the crosshole on the lock body, and press
it into the deadbolt, which will force the deadbolt to push inside the
lock cylinder.

3. Pull on the key, and the entire lock cylinder should slide out of the lock
body.

4. Clean and replace.






Just alen key for removal

No you don't understand what happened here.

The pin you are pushing back in your pictures with the Allen key, had jammed and wouldn't move. So you can't remove anything to get access to it.

You can't release the plastic dust guard, or the locking pin (whichever was in situ at the time).

You can turn the lock barrel with the keys inserted (full lock rotation left and right), but that pin does not move - it's jammed. Thus locking the whole unit to your bike !!

In normal operation, when you turn the key in the barrel, it retracts that pin so the dust guard or locking pin can be removed. If it corrodes over a couple of weeks that pin jams

As it did with mine. Luckily I only had the dust guard in situ, and was able to unbolt the whole unit without further damage.

But even then, you have NO ACCESS to that jammed pin to release it... unless you drill out the dust guard (if you were lucky enough to only have the plastic dust guard inserted)

[Warlord]

As has been said already, give it a clean and lube every now and again......

I did Shaun. Not after every single ride but I did clean it with water and compressed air.

I never used any lubricant as it was suggested by Roadlok not to.

But I seriously think during winter you should take it out and give it a good clean. Especially if there are any signs of rust in the barrel.

Problem is it is very exposed where it sits to all the crap being thrown up on the bike.

Really needs a neoprene (or rubber innertube) cover for the actual lock mechanism, or something similar during winter use to keep the crap off it.

[Warlord]

I just had an idea.....

I've cut up an old inner-tube from my Africa Twin front wheel (had a puncture last week).

It's stretchy but robust.

Use that to cover the lock while it's on the bike in winter and when washing it.

Maybe??

[Zoton]

No you don't understand what happened here.

The pin you are pushing back in your pictures with the Allen key, had jammed and wouldn't move. So you can't remove anything to get access to it.

You can't release the plastic dust guard, or the locking pin (whichever was in situ at the time).

You can turn the lock barrel with the keys inserted (full lock rotation left and right), but that pin does not move - it's jammed. Thus locking the whole unit to your bike !!

In normal operation, when you turn the key in the barrel, it retracts that pin so the dust guard or locking pin can be removed. If it corrodes over a couple of weeks that pin jams

As it did with mine. Luckily I only had the dust guard in situ, and was able to unbolt the whole unit without further damage.

But even then, you have NO ACCESS to that jammed pin to release it... unless you drill out the dust guard (if you were lucky enough to only have the plastic dust guard inserted)

I can assure you I understand. the original post asked for maintenance suggestions to which I have replied with one.

[Outtomunch]

I can assure you I understand. the original post asked for maintenance suggestions to which I have replied with one.

You beat me to it

Warlord stop, as ever, over complicating shit. Just give it an occasional clean/lube and it'll be fine.

Andres

[Warlord]

Oh... ok