R65LS

Not sold but not actively trying to sell it either. I’ve probably got more bikes than I need though so if someone was interested I would let it go
 
I haven't got a lot. I have a used set of barrels and pistons that I bought as spares. Most bits I bought were used to replace the less good bits on the bike I have. In truth, mine has been untouched for a while. While it's been running it needs a bit of fiddling with ignition and fuelling.
You could go 'custom' and fit an 860cc kit from Siebenrock.

Do you have a RHS front fairing infil panel or do you know where I might get one ?


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Do you have a RHS front fairing infil panel or do you know where I might get one ?


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Sorry. No. I haven't got them on my bike at all. I was missing a fairing mount bracket and I struggled to find one of those. Usual sources are Motorworks or Sherlocks. I think it looks OK without them. Why not just take the lhs one off?
 
Sorry. No. I haven't got them on my bike at all. I was missing a fairing mount bracket and I struggled to find one of those. Usual sources are Motorworks or Sherlocks. I think it looks OK without them. Why not just take the lhs one off?

Thanks for getting back to me , I’ll keep hunting ….


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Decided to sell this to make room in my garage so I can work on my sons new to him R100GS


Re-commission of the sons bike put on hold so I’m removing this from sale and I’m going to give it a bit of mechanical TLC and a good clean

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Steering head bearings replaced as they were shot . Dropped the sump and it was incredibly clean , I think the engine has had work done on it in the past as it has stainless push rods fitted , has excellent compression and burns no oil . Final drive level plug was incorrect , a cut down standard hex head bolt so that has been replaced (threads were fine) . Side stand had been repaired poorly so re-done properly with a new bush fitted . Exhaust removed to give it a good clean . Next job is to strip the carburettors , clean them in the ultrasonic tank and then re-assemble with new O rings .

Decided to call it a day and go out for a ride on my R80GS , a bike that matches my demanding quality standards ;-)

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Carburettor cleaning/refurb session

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You put me in mind of a chap I once knew in Northallerton. He was a retired RAF aircraft technician. Unfortunately no longer with us, he had a passion for engineering, he enjoyed it. I was fortunate to buy a Kawasaki GPz750R1 from a fellow called Moss from Thirsk, who in the 1950’s held a number of Karting world records. It turned out, he had bought the bike from the ex RAF tech, who lived just around the corner from me. I went to see the guy, and ended up chatting for hours and becoming friends with him. He gave me all of his engineering notes and measurements from his ownership of my bike. A bike I wish I hadn’t sold.
 
Removed the old oil filter and it was completely squashed and stuck in , looks like the filter had not be inserted properly over the oil tube ?

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Steering head bearings replaced as they were shot . Dropped the sump and it was incredibly clean , I think the engine has had work done on it in the past as it has stainless push rods fitted , has excellent compression and burns no oil . Final drive level plug was incorrect , a cut down standard hex head bolt so that has been replaced (threads were fine) . Side stand had been repaired poorly so re-done properly with a new bush fitted . Exhaust removed to give it a good clean . Next job is to strip the carburettors , clean them in the ultrasonic tank and then re-assemble with new O rings .

Decided to call it a day and go out for a ride on my R80GS , a bike that matches my demanding quality standards ;-)

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That looks lovely John. I approve of the additions👍
 
Removed the old oil filter and it was completely squashed and stuck in , looks like the filter had not be inserted properly over the oil tube ?

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Stuck/ jammed oil pressure relief valve?
I’d have thought the filter bypass valve would have opened before it crushed the element.?
Take a good look down the filter canister to see if the bypass valve has been messed with.
You should be able to push on the ball valve with a bit of thin steel rod.
Probably a good idea to stick a pressure gauge on it when it’s up and running again.
Certainly a bit concerning.
 
Stuck/ jammed oil pressure relief valve?
I’d have thought the filter bypass valve would have opened before it crushed the element.?
Take a good look down the filter canister to see if the bypass valve has been messed with.
You should be able to push on the ball valve with a bit of thin steel rod.
Probably a good idea to stick a pressure gauge on it when it’s up and running again.
Certainly a bit concerning.

I’d already decided that I would have to strip the front cover off to check the oil pressure relief valve , I’ll check the bypass valve later when I get home as somethings not right that’s for sure !


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Stuck/ jammed oil pressure relief valve?
I’d have thought the filter bypass valve would have opened before it crushed the element.?
Take a good look down the filter canister to see if the bypass valve has been messed with.
You should be able to push on the ball valve with a bit of thin steel rod.
Probably a good idea to stick a pressure gauge on it when it’s up and running again.
Certainly a bit concerning.

The oil pressure relief valve piston is free moving and the spring appears OK . The ball bearing in the oil filter canister depresses in and returns back to place so the bypass also seems fine . Can only think it’s a dodgy aftermarket filter (Reisen) or it’s been revved hard after an oil change and the filter cartridge wasn’t filled with oil and the pressure differential caused the collapse . For the first start after the rebuild I’ll prime the oil system by cranking the engine over a few times and make sure the oil light goes out , I’ll then remove the oil pressure switch temporarily and fit a pressure gauge and see what pressure I get hot and cold (Snowburn has a YouTube video showing cold pressure at tick over of about 80PSI , rising to about 100 PSI at higher revs at which point the relief valve kicks in . With a hot engine this drops to 40PSI at tick over)


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Well , the more I get into this bike the more issues I find so decided there was only one way to sort it and that was to fully strip it and check everything and then re-assemble it with known good parts/engineering practice . It might just me be being very fussy but issues with the wiring harness being hacked and chopped , jubilee clips as exhaust clamps , battery strap hooks broken off battery cage , front brake calipers full of rusty fluid and a dust seal missing , air box bolts not even in hand tight , indicator lense screws fitted with self tapping screws , final drive leaking oil , choke cables frayed , lots of non standard bolts , leaking fork seals , air box breather pipes all split , the list goes on . So it may take me a bit longer than envisaged but I intend to sort out the mechanical/electrical issues on the bike and then run it for a bit . At that point I can decide if I sell it on to allow someone else to do the paintwork or if I get the paintwork done and keep it myself .

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