chad
Registered user
thats the way dont pussy foot around with it
hats off to you pastyman keepin yourself busy and all that
love that fording pic with the 7 too
Oh dear.... what have I started.
- Thread starter (RIP) pastyman
- Start date
thats the way dont pussy foot around with it
hats off to you pastyman keepin yourself busy and all that
love that fording pic with the 7 too
Wish I knew how to post the pics inbetween descriptions of what I've been doing but I'll just have to do it this way.
Got the lump out yesterday after taking off the barrels. Rosie went mad as she reconed I should have got help especially as I managed to badly bruise the bone in my right arm. anyway its on the bench and the bike looks pretty minimalistic. had a bit of a look at the frame and it does'nt look bad, would probably have done witha bit of a wash poff after all. toooooo late now.
Ive ordered the bits from MW and so will be able to start work on it soon.
The plan is to clean up the outside of the engine a bit at first, then to do the timing chain and have the cover and rocker covers powder coated. In the mean time I will get the valve guides done . K-line type system where the guides are drilled and inserts fitted. valves and springs replaced as well as s/s pushrod tubes.
My plan is then to reassemble the engine loosely so that I can powder blast it. This is another subject on its own. Ive looked at various posts on the site regarding this method and although there is a bit of advice it does not really give any clear answers as th ho effective it is on the likes of the barrells or the crankcase. small items seem to be ok. But.. as If I go for this I will have to look at buying a compressor I need to know that it will work.
I could hire one but that is about £70 dead money whereas If I buy one , even if it is more expensive, at least I will still have the unit. PROBLEMS PROBLEMS.
So If anyone out there has any experience of this method of cleaning , please let me know.
One final bit... Now I love my old airheads, quality machines
but why oh why is the wiring so crap. look at the photo's of the original wiring under the frame, binding tape peeling of after only 20 years. very poor dontcha think.
Got the lump out yesterday after taking off the barrels. Rosie went mad as she reconed I should have got help especially as I managed to badly bruise the bone in my right arm. anyway its on the bench and the bike looks pretty minimalistic. had a bit of a look at the frame and it does'nt look bad, would probably have done witha bit of a wash poff after all. toooooo late now.
Ive ordered the bits from MW and so will be able to start work on it soon.
The plan is to clean up the outside of the engine a bit at first, then to do the timing chain and have the cover and rocker covers powder coated. In the mean time I will get the valve guides done . K-line type system where the guides are drilled and inserts fitted. valves and springs replaced as well as s/s pushrod tubes.
My plan is then to reassemble the engine loosely so that I can powder blast it. This is another subject on its own. Ive looked at various posts on the site regarding this method and although there is a bit of advice it does not really give any clear answers as th ho effective it is on the likes of the barrells or the crankcase. small items seem to be ok. But.. as If I go for this I will have to look at buying a compressor I need to know that it will work.
I could hire one but that is about £70 dead money whereas If I buy one , even if it is more expensive, at least I will still have the unit. PROBLEMS PROBLEMS.
So If anyone out there has any experience of this method of cleaning , please let me know.
One final bit... Now I love my old airheads, quality machines
but why oh why is the wiring so crap. look at the photo's of the original wiring under the frame, binding tape peeling of after only 20 years. very poor dontcha think.Attachments
rc mad
Registered user
you don thang about do you
Love these rebuild threads, perhaps that's why i'm getting a guzzi v50 in boxes
Love these rebuild threads, perhaps that's why i'm getting a guzzi v50 in boxes
Pastyman,
You are getting ahead of me - I haven't sorted out my pictures yet
My younger daughter was taken to the Maternity Ward at 03:00 this morning so as you can imagine SWMBO is like a cat on hot bricks. Also, we now have another 4" snow fall and elder daughter is stuck and needing to get to the shops. Time to dig the 4x4 out again
.I thought that when they got to their 30s and left home life would be more peaceful - but it isn't so.
Bear with me, I'll get the pics up on the site somehow/sometime.
Bob.
Timing chain
If you get the join for the timing chain on the rhs of the camshaft, the use the old male section of the joining link to put in from the outside to hold the chain together. Then turn the chain a little further clockwise until there's plenty of space behind the joiner. Now insert the new male section of the joiner from the back to push the old male link out, put on the outer link and the spring clip, job done simples..................and I haven't got little hands either!
HTHY, unless you already knew that!
If you get the join for the timing chain on the rhs of the camshaft, the use the old male section of the joining link to put in from the outside to hold the chain together. Then turn the chain a little further clockwise until there's plenty of space behind the joiner. Now insert the new male section of the joiner from the back to push the old male link out, put on the outer link and the spring clip, job done simples..................and I haven't got little hands either!
HTHY, unless you already knew that!
Humbug
Registered user
I still miss mine. Ex- DSA, bought for £1200. Covered 60,000 trouble free miles on it and then sold for £2200.
Voyager, many congratulations on the grandchild, hope all goes well
Ive a bit to do before fitting the new timing chain so bno sweat.
Arkwright. Hmm that sounds just tooo simple and logical. wonder wy I didnt think of it the last time when I spent hours buggering about trying to get the link in from the back.
Devon , me old mate, Only someone living in Devon would think Cornwall was a long way away.
get another barbie on the way grab a few others and we could have a mini "weekend" and tear the bugger to bits.
I thought you were selling the RS? Seen sense I recon
Ive a bit to do before fitting the new timing chain so bno sweat.
Arkwright. Hmm that sounds just tooo simple and logical. wonder wy I didnt think of it the last time when I spent hours buggering about trying to get the link in from the back.
Devon , me old mate, Only someone living in Devon would think Cornwall was a long way away.
get another barbie on the way grab a few others and we could have a mini "weekend" and tear the bugger to bits.
I thought you were selling the RS? Seen sense I recon
The rumour here is you lot are still eating the missionarys
get another barbie on the way grab a few others and we could have a mini "weekend" and tear the bugger to bits.
I thought you were selling the RS? Seen sense I recon
The gent who wanted the RS backed out, so I decided to keep it and try to tidy it up on a budget as I am trying to save up for the Commando my mate's brother is selling
There is probably a BBQ in May. Check out the ride out in the South West region
Missionaries? Whats them then?
I'm following the ride on the sw section. too early for me to make a committment tho.
Anyhow back to the progress..
I thought I would try the basic (and cheap) way of cleaning up the crankcase.
Degreaser got rid of a lot of crud though it took a fair bit of scrubbing. I then tried T Euro and that got them a bit cleaner but there are still small black marks which spoil the overall effect. If I am going to do this I would like to get them back to as close to new as I can so I may well have to spend the money and get a compressor although I am worried that a smaller capacity one may just be a waste of cash,
The chap who is doing my valve guides says that he has had good results with a sonic cleaner on hears and barrels so we may give that a try. I did a carb once and was'nt too impressed
I will post results
I'm following the ride on the sw section. too early for me to make a committment tho.
Anyhow back to the progress..
I thought I would try the basic (and cheap) way of cleaning up the crankcase.
Degreaser got rid of a lot of crud though it took a fair bit of scrubbing. I then tried T Euro and that got them a bit cleaner but there are still small black marks which spoil the overall effect. If I am going to do this I would like to get them back to as close to new as I can so I may well have to spend the money and get a compressor although I am worried that a smaller capacity one may just be a waste of cash,
The chap who is doing my valve guides says that he has had good results with a sonic cleaner on hears and barrels so we may give that a try. I did a carb once and was'nt too impressed
I will post results
Missionaries? Whats them then?
I'm following the ride on the sw section. too early for me to make a committment tho.
Anyhow back to the progress..
I thought I would try the basic (and cheap) way of cleaning up the crankcase.
Degreaser got rid of a lot of crud though it took a fair bit of scrubbing. I then tried T Euro and that got them a bit cleaner but there are still small black marks which spoil the overall effect. If I am going to do this I would like to get them back to as close to new as I can so I may well have to spend the money and get a compressor although I am worried that a smaller capacity one may just be a waste of cash,
The chap who is doing my valve guides says that he has had good results with a sonic cleaner on heads and barrels so we may give that a try. I did a carb once and was'nt too impressed
I will post results
I'm following the ride on the sw section. too early for me to make a committment tho.
Anyhow back to the progress..
I thought I would try the basic (and cheap) way of cleaning up the crankcase.
Degreaser got rid of a lot of crud though it took a fair bit of scrubbing. I then tried T Euro and that got them a bit cleaner but there are still small black marks which spoil the overall effect. If I am going to do this I would like to get them back to as close to new as I can so I may well have to spend the money and get a compressor although I am worried that a smaller capacity one may just be a waste of cash,
The chap who is doing my valve guides says that he has had good results with a sonic cleaner on heads and barrels so we may give that a try. I did a carb once and was'nt too impressed
I will post results
That's exactly how I did mine.
(First Grandchild - Dean, Robert, Espie - arrived at 17:50. Mother, baby & Father doing well . . And so is their cat, I had to go and feed her because daughter was in labour for so long
).How did young couples manage before they had parents
Bob.
You're right,, just move away......
No work on the bike today though a friend brought me some stuff called preprezol.. or something similar. he recons its brill for cleaning aluminium. He's had it for years so it could be one of "those" chemicals. It must be quite strong as you are supposed to use it at about 5%. Anybody heard of it?
He also gave me some "elbow grease"... Dont larf apparantly its from poundstretcher, £1 a bottle and works better than Mucoff, Might be worth a try.
I'm going to go back to seeing how I get on cleaning it all by hand after all. time is not really an issue what with the weather and my current health. I have noticed that after cleaning a smallish area there are what look like small spots on the ally. I now find that in fact they are above the surface and can be scraped off, looks like a long job but........
No work on the bike today though a friend brought me some stuff called preprezol.. or something similar. he recons its brill for cleaning aluminium. He's had it for years so it could be one of "those" chemicals. It must be quite strong as you are supposed to use it at about 5%. Anybody heard of it?
He also gave me some "elbow grease"... Dont larf
apparantly its from poundstretcher, £1 a bottle and works better than Mucoff, Might be worth a try.I'm going to go back to seeing how I get on cleaning it all by hand after all. time is not really an issue what with the weather and my current health. I have noticed that after cleaning a smallish area there are what look like small spots on the ally. I now find that in fact they are above the surface and can be scraped off, looks like a long job but........
So far this week just a little progress. firstly ,having ordered the bits from MW, I was a bit worried by Friday as they had not arrived. Rang MW who said that they had not been sent as a couple of the bits were out of stock AsI dont need them till much later they promised to sent the rest but so far they've not arrived. maybe monday.
I tried the cleaning products and although they sort of worked, got all the crap off, it still left these brownish marks which is not the look I'm after. seems like its back to the soda blasting idea. I happened to be seeing an Austin 7, mate of mine when he told me that not only did he have a compressor but also a blast cabinet and a blasting tank thingy. He lives on a smallholding so we may be changing the colour of the hillside to a sort of powdery white in the near future.
I did spend some time cleaning and painting the frame. Hammerite satin is a very good match for the original and its come up pretty well, actually a bit better than the pics show. anyway, no rusty bits and all grease and dirt gone
I know plastic coating would have been better but this project is a smartening up rather than a full rebuild
AsI dont need them till much later they promised to sent the rest but so far they've not arrived. maybe monday. I tried the cleaning products and although they sort of worked, got all the crap off, it still left these brownish marks which is not the look I'm after. seems like its back to the soda blasting idea. I happened to be seeing an Austin 7, mate of mine when he told me that not only did he have a compressor but also a blast cabinet and a blasting tank thingy. He lives on a smallholding so we may be changing the colour of the hillside to a sort of powdery white in the near future.
I did spend some time cleaning and painting the frame. Hammerite satin is a very good match for the original and its come up pretty well, actually a bit better than the pics show. anyway, no rusty bits and all grease and dirt gone
I know plastic coating would have been better but this project is a smartening up rather than a full rebuild
EXCELLENT. did this today, will post some pics later, it worked a treat.Cheers
Pleased to be able to help!
Well me bits arrived from MW today so I started to renew the timing chain. As no one has posted a description of how to do it I thought I would show my effort.
Thanks to Arkwrights description I was able to do the job this afternoon.
so this is how it went. Using my new rotor removal tool( pic 1) I removed the rotor....... Must remember to tag it and put it in my BMW special bits drawer as I must have at least two of these floating around somewhere.
Next was to remove the timing cover, simple enough but make a note of where the eart straps to the diode board are located. also the three round nuts lower down in the case. Haynes suggested heating the area on the cranshaft to pull the case off the shaft. I tapped gently with a wooden mallet and it came of reasonably easily.
Had a bit of trouble getting the tensioner piston to go back into its housing after the slipper was removed. I held it back with a g/clamp until the chain was broken at the split link and removed. ai took off the clip and the top link and then rotated the whole lot anti clockwise until there was more room under the link and took it out from the back. Be careful here as there is a hole into the crankcase here and you could drop the link through it. I stuffed a piece of rag into the hole to stop this happening. I put the new chain on , made sure the marks on the cranshaft and the camchain lined up and using the method described by Arkwright put the link in, making sure the outer clip was the right way round ie closed end in the direction of travel.guide and tensioner ( new) fitted.
The timing cover was then cleaned up and painted (hammerite) and a new seal fitted. the old seal was driven out from the inside using a large socket and the new one put in from the other side also using the socket .
Thats it..... some pics
timing case put back
Thanks to Arkwrights description I was able to do the job this afternoon.
so this is how it went. Using my new rotor removal tool( pic 1) I removed the rotor......
. Must remember to tag it and put it in my BMW special bits drawer as I must have at least two of these floating around somewhere.Next was to remove the timing cover, simple enough but make a note of where the eart straps to the diode board are located. also the three round nuts lower down in the case. Haynes suggested heating the area on the cranshaft to pull the case off the shaft. I tapped gently with a wooden mallet and it came of reasonably easily.
Had a bit of trouble getting the tensioner piston to go back into its housing after the slipper was removed. I held it back with a g/clamp until the chain was broken at the split link and removed. ai took off the clip and the top link and then rotated the whole lot anti clockwise until there was more room under the link and took it out from the back. Be careful here as there is a hole into the crankcase here and you could drop the link through it. I stuffed a piece of rag into the hole to stop this happening. I put the new chain on , made sure the marks on the cranshaft and the camchain lined up and using the method described by Arkwright put the link in, making sure the outer clip was the right way round ie closed end in the direction of travel.guide and tensioner ( new) fitted.
The timing cover was then cleaned up and painted (hammerite) and a new seal fitted. the old seal was driven out from the inside using a large socket and the new one put in from the other side also using the socket .
Thats it..... some pics
timing case put back
Attachments
Incidently, Haynes say that the camshaft sprocket should be removed when replacing the split link chain like this. but as you can see it in not neccesary.
Ok, bit of an update. Ive boxed the engine up so that its ready for the soda blasting and ordered the soda and a regulater valve from a firm called MSB, somewhere ooop north, should be here by thursday. I will post some pics on this subject when we start.
Ive also degreased the gearbox in readyness for the same and also the swingarm and diff. Now I have a bit of a quandry. The swingarm has been touched up a few times in the past and so looks a bit rough. Ideally I suppose it would be best to strip it and powdercoat but that means getting the driveshaft out and I dont have a spring compressor. I could just paint it with hammerite like the frame but I wonder how long the paint would last. anyone done it? still I suppose just doing the swingarm again if it doe'nt work is not the end of the world.
. Ive also degreased the gearbox in readyness for the same and also the swingarm and diff. Now I have a bit of a quandry. The swingarm has been touched up a few times in the past and so looks a bit rough. Ideally I suppose it would be best to strip it and powdercoat but that means getting the driveshaft out and I dont have a spring compressor. I could just paint it with hammerite like the frame but I wonder how long the paint would last. anyone done it? still I suppose just doing the swingarm again if it doe'nt work is not the end of the world.
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